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Dome Driver

5.8, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 46 votes
FA: unknown
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > Cheap Wine Wall
Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description

P1: Start between Hartford and MD 20/20. Follow face up to large horizontal crack with tree. Bolted anchor above.

P2: Traverse up left past one bolt to a large ledge with bolted anchors at the end of a line of bolts.

P3: Walk up slab to the top of the dome.

Descent: to rappel P3 a 30 meter rappel is not sufficient. You can climb to the top of the dome and walk down but rappelling would be quicker/easier with a rope long enough.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dome Driving into outer space 30+years later at the end of the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Dome Driving into outer space 30+years later at the end of the second pitch.
Rough outline of the route. Climb to the left of the tree on Pitch 1. Easily done in 2 pitches. 2nd pitch is very run out
[Hide Photo] Rough outline of the route. Climb to the left of the tree on Pitch 1. Easily done in 2 pitches. 2nd pitch is very run out
Top of P2
[Hide Photo] Top of P2
Belay station for P2
[Hide Photo] Belay station for P2
Michael and River at my traditional anchor I built above the first bolt of P2 in the horizontal crack. The tree acts as a notable marker.
[Hide Photo] Michael and River at my traditional anchor I built above the first bolt of P2 in the horizontal crack. The tree acts as a notable marker.
Delicate, yet easy traverse out left to the first bolt to start pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Delicate, yet easy traverse out left to the first bolt to start pitch 2.
The start of Dome Driver
[Hide Photo] The start of Dome Driver
View from the top of the final pitch. Gets run out a bit going for the 2nd bolt on this pitch. Tied two 60m Ropes for the Rappel. Would have been so much nicer with a 70m.
[Hide Photo] View from the top of the final pitch. Gets run out a bit going for the 2nd bolt on this pitch. Tied two 60m Ropes for the Rappel. Would have been so much nicer with a 70m.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Superclimber
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The above description isn't entirely accurate. The route is as follows.

1. Start on the nicely featured water streak below the tree in the corner of the overlap. This streak which often stays wet for some time after it rains is in fact found between Hartford and MD 20/20. There is one bolt in the lower water streak before the overlap. Next wiggle in behind the tree (try to be gentle, this tree takes a beating) and mount the overlap in the corner behind the tree. Pull a couple easy, but exposed moves to gain the second bolt which is above the overlap. This bolt protects a few 5.7 moves that some people complain are sandbagged. Continue up to the obvious double bolted anchors found in Beer Can Alley.

2. At this point Dome Driver and Hartford cross each other. Dome Driver trends left and Hartford is the line of bolts to the right. To stay on Dome Driver move left from the anchors crossing crunchy and flaky low angle rock to a third bolt which is painted to match the rock. After clipping the bolt head straight up to the ledge and the thin flake above. You can get a limited amount of reliable pro behind the flake as you follow it up. Above the flake you will come to a ledge with a quality horizontal #2/3 placement at your feet. At this point you are crossing the Boston line. Boston trends right and Dome Driver trends left. Finally, if you are following the classic line, run it out on the nicely featured low angle black streak to your left. Belay at the double bolted anchors.

FYI: The upper black streak above where Dome Driver crosses Boston now has bolts on it. These bolts belong to Kracken. They are there if you want to clip them, but not part of Dome Driver. Jan 30, 2014
Charles DuPont
Portland, ME
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The beta here for this route is a bit confusing, so I'll post my experience:

P1: Up the water streak past a bolt, place a cam under the lip (#3), and go straight up bolts to the anchors on top of the flake. (80ft)

P2: Traverse left off the anchors to the bolt, easier if you go down the Beer Can Alley from the anchor and head up directly under the bolt. Proceed almost straight up and place a cam behind the thin flake (#3 C4) as you go up it. There is a bomber thread on the ledge above the flake crack and other gear at your feet. Step up onto the face and follow the line of bolts on the black water streak slightly to the left to a 2 bolt anchor. (150ft)

P3: Unprotected 5.0 climbing to the top of the dome (50ft) Sep 22, 2019
Ben LC
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] I'm sure many would disagree but while this is a fun climb, it is also pretty runout and falls could be consequential. I found it especially discomforting during the 2nd pitch, when the rock started crumbling under my feet 15 feet above the previous bolt. If this is your first time climbing here, I would advise familiarizing yourself with the rock on other climbs before jumping on this, unless you feel really good on slabs. This is a 5.8 in the traditional sense, not your "typical sport 5.8" Jan 25, 2020
[Hide Comment] I started from the left of the water stream. I was tied into the middle of my 70m rope with a follower on either end. On P2, there was no gear after the horizontal crack above the flake. I ran out of rope ~15ft from the anchors (with 35m of rope below). I downclimbed the slab to the horizontal crack where my last gear placements were, made a trad anchor with Blue and Gold BD cams, and Blue Hexcentric.
Belayed my followers to that point and was able to make it to the anchors. Feb 13, 2023