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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall
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Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,446 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Coplan on Jul 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff |
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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset
Details
Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Description
P1: Start between Hartford and MD 20/20. Follow face up to large horizontal crack with tree. Bolted anchor above.
P2: Traverse up left past one bolt to a large ledge with bolted anchors.
P3: Follow bolts (some are spinners) up slab staying slightly left until bolted anchor.
Descent: to rappel P3 a 30 meter rappel is not sufficient. You can climb to the top of the dome and walk down but rappelling would be quicker/easier with a rope long enough.
P2: Traverse up left past one bolt to a large ledge with bolted anchors.
P3: Follow bolts (some are spinners) up slab staying slightly left until bolted anchor.
Descent: to rappel P3 a 30 meter rappel is not sufficient. You can climb to the top of the dome and walk down but rappelling would be quicker/easier with a rope long enough.
1. Start on the nicely featured water streak below the tree in the corner of the overlap. This streak which often stays wet for some time after it rains is in fact found between Hartford and MD 20/20. There is one bolt in the lower water streak before the overlap. Next wiggle in behind the tree (try to be gentle, this tree takes a beating) and mount the overlap in the corner behind the tree. Pull a couple easy, but exposed moves to gain the second bolt which is above the overlap. This bolt protects a few 5.7 moves that some people complain are sandbagged. Continue up to the obvious double bolted anchors found in Beer Can Alley.
2. At this point Dome Driver and Hartford cross each other. Dome Driver trends left and Hartford is the line of bolts to the right. To stay on Dome Driver move left from the anchors crossing crunchy and flaky low angle rock to a third bolt which is painted to match the rock. After clipping the bolt head straight up to the ledge and the thin flake above. You can get a limited amount of reliable pro behind the flake as you follow it up. Above the flake you will come to a ledge with a quality horizontal #2/3 placement at your feet. At this point you are crossing the Boston line. Boston trends right and Dome Driver trends left. Finally, if you are following the classic line, run it out on the nicely featured low angle black streak to your left. Belay at the double bolted anchors.
FYI: The upper black streak above where Dome Driver crosses Boston now has bolts on it. These bolts belong to Kracken. They are there if you want to clip them, but not part of Dome Driver. Jan 30, 2014