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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall

Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,943 total, 38/month
Shared By: Joe Coplan on Jul 6, 2011
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

P1: Start between Hartford and MD 20/20. Follow face up to large horizontal crack with tree. Bolted anchor above.

P2: Traverse up left past one bolt to a large ledge with bolted anchors.

P3: Follow bolts (some are spinners) up slab staying slightly left until bolted anchor.

Descent: to rappel P3 a 30 meter rappel is not sufficient. You can climb to the top of the dome and walk down but rappelling would be quicker/easier with a rope long enough.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Superclimber
  5.7
Superclimber  
  5.7
The above description isn't entirely accurate. The route is as follows.

1. Start on the nicely featured water streak below the tree in the corner of the overlap. This streak which often stays wet for some time after it rains is in fact found between Hartford and MD 20/20. There is one bolt in the lower water streak before the overlap. Next wiggle in behind the tree (try to be gentle, this tree takes a beating) and mount the overlap in the corner behind the tree. Pull a couple easy, but exposed moves to gain the second bolt which is above the overlap. This bolt protects a few 5.7 moves that some people complain are sandbagged. Continue up to the obvious double bolted anchors found in Beer Can Alley.

2. At this point Dome Driver and Hartford cross each other. Dome Driver trends left and Hartford is the line of bolts to the right. To stay on Dome Driver move left from the anchors crossing crunchy and flaky low angle rock to a third bolt which is painted to match the rock. After clipping the bolt head straight up to the ledge and the thin flake above. You can get a limited amount of reliable pro behind the flake as you follow it up. Above the flake you will come to a ledge with a quality horizontal #2/3 placement at your feet. At this point you are crossing the Boston line. Boston trends right and Dome Driver trends left. Finally, if you are following the classic line, run it out on the nicely featured low angle black streak to your left. Belay at the double bolted anchors.

FYI: The upper black streak above where Dome Driver crosses Boston now has bolts on it. These bolts belong to Kracken. They are there if you want to clip them, but not part of Dome Driver. Jan 30, 2014