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Allelopathy Arete
5.11d,
Sport, Alpine, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
FA: Ben Folsom 7-4-2011
Utah
> S Central Utah
> Jungle, on the…
> Lower Jungle
Description
Climb the arete (mostly on the left side, or directly on it, using both sides) passing 9 bolts on the way to a two bolt/chain anchor. Good rock, with very technical climbing at the crux and sustained climbing throughout.
Location
This is the nice, square arete, located in between "Gooseberry Corner" and "Opposable Thumbs Required".
Approximately 10 feet right of Gooseberry.
Protection
Quickdraws
![Allelopathy Arete, with the next arete to the right being "Opposable Thumbs Required"]()
[Hide Photo] Allelopathy Arete, with the next arete to the right being "Opposable Thumbs Required"
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Merced
Small Lake, UT
The start of this thing is hard enough to warrant the 11d rating. The arete section around the 4th (I think) bolt is just ridiculously burly. I tend to do well with technical climbing but I was reduced to wild flailing on that section. The crimps on the left are non-existent and the arete is just blunt enough to offer miserable pinches. The feet? There aren't any.
I'd recommend TRing the line from the shared anchor with the 10 to the right (Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright.before jumping on it on lead. Unless you routinely onsight 12s you'll have to climb it to retrieve your draws anyway...
Strong work sending that rig Ben, it belongs in the Sandbags Hall of Fame! Jul 2, 2012
Small Lake, UT
Guess I'll update my rating to 5.9+, people shouldn't be surprised if they get their asses handed to them. Jul 6, 2012