PRINT: Climb Circus Freak, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Circus Freak

V2, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 101 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Boulders - Litt… > Cabbage Patch > Double Dyno Boulder

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Start in the horizontal crack just to the right of Double Dyno, and head upward. The guidebook says to climb into the left-angling crack and top out.

It's kind of cool heading up the Michelin Man fat rolls, reaching deep into the adipose tissue to pull yourself up.

Location

Just to the right of Double Dyno (V2).

Protection

Good, flat landing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of the Double Dyno Boulder from the top of the path.

I'm pretty sure this is the right problem.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nay Thin
San Diego, CA

Found this problem was a bit more enjoyable if you start just right of the double dyno horn. left hand on the bulge, right hand on the flat ledge. then go straight up to the diagonal rail from there. although both ways felt more v1 Sep 24, 2020

Jeremy Neal
Petaluma, CA

Solid little problem. Feels quite a bit easier than Double Dyno but with slightly scary topout. Good intermediate on this boulder between Cruiser and Double Dyno if you're more static. Found a really fun beta with a knee bar. Feet on the rail just to the left of start holds. Jam left knee deep into that pocket and lean back into thumb press or gaston on the 45 degree crack. Mar 10, 2024