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Routes in Antarctica

Burning Grandma Bones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crematorium Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elvis Shades Rule S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fabulous Gordini, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Like Diocletian's Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Man-Bear-Pig S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moon Unit's Secret Shinto Ride S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vikings and Ghetto Blasters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Turkeys S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Aaron Huey, 2008
Page Views: 443 total · 6/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Jul 5, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Big moves to big holds, with a lot of foot swapping, so the pump clock is ticking. Crux move may be a dyno for some, it is certainly very big, and the best hold is the one furthest away. Good warmup for the Daily Planet routes.

Location

On the extreme left edge of Antarctica, above and just left of the top of the Daily Planet Boulder.

Protection

6 bolts, although the base is so sloping and loose that the logical start skips the first bolt. Fixe rap rings for anchors.

Photos

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Shane Williams
Ten Sleep, Wy
  5.10a
Shane Williams   Ten Sleep, Wy
  5.10a
I was just up there last week and the second pitch is definitely intact and climbable, I've heard rumors that it goes at upper 5.11 but I am not sure. Jun 4, 2017
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
That rope is a Huey original relic left behind and abandoned for years now. I untied it from the tree on top a couple years ago and threw it down while I was up there establishing several lines to the left on Metropolis. Instead of falling to the ground where I could gather it up and dispose of it, it still hangs, tied to a bolt above the first pitch anchor. I never went up to clean it off though it needs to be done. The second pitch looks to be intact and climbable. Anyone??? Feb 22, 2016
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
As of July 4, 2011, somebody is establishing a second pitch/extension to this route. No further details except to say that you shouldn't pull on somebody's fixed line without the owner's say-so. Jul 5, 2011