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There Is No Spoon

5.10c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 83 votes
FA: Charlie Kardaleff, 2002
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Matrix Pillar
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

Follow good holds through an overhang. Pass the bulge and enter vertical to slightly under vertical rock with thin holds. Climb through the crux to slightly better holds and the anchors.

Location

Immediately left of the Nebachanezer chimney. Belay from a small panel of dolomite that forms a platform below and to the left of the first bolt, or from the trail, as the area directly underneath the route is steep and loose dirt.

Protection

8 bolts to fixe rap rings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paula Wright leading There Is No Spoon while Brian Scoggins belays.  Photograph by Jody Mayer
[Hide Photo] Paula Wright leading There Is No Spoon while Brian Scoggins belays. Photograph by Jody Mayer

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is a great route. Fun slabby finish on crimps and pockets. A few long draws help keep the rope straight Mar 3, 2017
Rebecca G
Crested Butte, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is a fun sleeper-route. Get on it! When the back 40 is mobbed, this little puppy is just waiting there for you. Well-bolted with good holds when it's steep, then less good holds when the angle lessens, it's an enjoyable romp at the grade. Oct 4, 2024