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There Is No Spoon
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 83
votes
Routes in Matrix Pillar
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Agent Smith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Born Under a Bad Sign S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Censored For Your Enjoyment S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coppertop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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He Say You Blade Runner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I Know Kung Fu S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nebuchadnezzar S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Take the Red Pill S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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There Is No Spoon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Charlie Kardaleff, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,046 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Petsfed 00 on Jul 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Follow good holds through an overhang. Pass the bulge and enter vertical to slightly under vertical rock with thin holds. Climb through the crux to slightly better holds and the anchors.
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