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Dixie Chicken

5.10a, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 23 votes
FA: Mike Trew, Mark Kearse 1997
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Sunken Treasure

Description

This is the thin beautiful crack at the far left side of the lower wall.

This is one of the few routes that requires some specialized gear. Bring a set of brass or ballnutz to protect the start in the thin crack. This crack looks to have eaten a purple TCU. Booty if you can get it! Enjoy the slab up the thin crack, then move left to a bolt. Pull up to the steepness to a short crack, the leftmost of the two. Plug some gear in the crack and pull up onto the slab. Get into the short corner and reach the tree just above with cable anchor and slings.

Protection

Thin to medium sized gear. Some long runners to extend the tree anchor over the ledge. The rappel cable looks to be in good shape, but bring extra webbing if you doubt it. The cable has two quick links to get down. A 60m or less will be fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dixie Chicken, 5.10a.
[Hide Photo] Dixie Chicken, 5.10a.
Eric clipping up the pro in the steep section.
[Hide Photo] Eric clipping up the pro in the steep section.
Me at the start of the thin crack with Eric at belay.
[Hide Photo] Me at the start of the thin crack with Eric at belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rick Carpenter
Marion, NC
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I was told the original route (5.10a) goes up the crack to the right after the bolt. They gave the one farther left 5.9 Jul 4, 2011
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] You can protect the first couple moves with a BD 00. Sep 29, 2012