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Routes in Trilogy Buttress

Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Knight, Christian Knight
Page Views: 695 total · 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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An attention-grabbing first pitch (pitch 3, counting from the ground) with crumbly white and yellow quartzite to a bolted-anchor belay.

From the belay, climb left and up onto the south-facing aspect of the column for the start of the next pitch. Up the face on positive, sometimes nerve-wracking holds, and then around the east (right) side. From here step back onto the main face.

There are belay anchors at this point. Either stop and belay the second, or just continue up through sparse bolts and glassy shards to the top.


Left side of Trilogy Buttress; the obvious columnar prominence.

Climb either Wizardly Way or P2 of Lord of the Slings, then follow the left-most bolt line at the left side of the upper face.


P1 5 bolts, ring anchors.
P2 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
I came here looking for this info and didn't find it, so I'll leave this here: no use bringing up supplemental gear for the Column. It's protected really well and there aren't any placements anyways.

I was also wondering if you could link pitches 1 and 2, and I highly recommend not doing this, the drag would be horrendous.

The crux is really short; all in all I honestly felt the crux of Shadow and Flame was harder. While this isn't a great route, it isn't a terrible one either and I enjoyed the outing. Mar 18, 2015

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