PRINT: Rock Climb Hair of the Dog, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Hair of the Dog

5.12b/c, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Mike Perkins and Clay Watson, 2011
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Early Bird

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This climbs the gently overhanging crack directly below and linking into the final crux of Early Bird. Scramble up the chossy rock and make a belay on a nice little shelf directly below the crack. Fire the V4 start, then some .11-ish climbing to the final V5-ish crux.

Location

Just left of Bedhead and under the final crux of Early Bird. The topo in A Granite Guide is slightly off, leading you to believe you stay in the initial crack far longer than you should. Don't do that, unless you're ready for potential 5.14 climbing. The topo on this page should get you there.

Protection

A nut and a #3 camalot for the belay at the bottom. Singles from grey tcu-#2 camalot with one or two long runners for the middle pieces. You can place a bomber medium offset nut below the crux but that's probably the only nut you'd need to supplement the cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hair of the Dog is the crack leading to Greg's position. Boisall's photo of Greg S.

Topo of area.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus

5.12b/c

This climbs more like two or three boulder problems than a route. Its short but the moves are fun so we kept going back. Probably about as hard as Speed Trap but far less sharp and painful. The finish boulder problem goes static if you can trust your feet.

Edit to say this dries out quickly and gets enough sun to make for a nice winter line. It short enough to keep your fingers from totally freezing and the temps help a ton. Jul 2, 2011

vacano

5.12b/c

This fairly direct line is substantially shorter than Early Bird yet a bit harder. Sep 26, 2011

tenesmus

5.12b/c

I've gotten feedback that this is probably straight .12c. Its got an extra V4 crux before joining Early Bird but is way shorter. Jan 26, 2014

Todd H
Honolulu, HI

5.12b/c

Had a lot of fun on top rope, which we set up by climbing over from the Bed Head anchor. A Yellow TCU and #2 Camalot in the upper crack system worked well as directionals. It might be a good idea to dial in your gear this way before leading it, as there seems to be a blind placement or two in the first half of the business. Great movement, especially the first crux! May 3, 2017