Type: Sport
FA: Pete deLannoy
Page Views: 1,337 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jon Marek on Jul 1, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Orphans of War is a crescendo of interesting pockets and hard to see feet that leads to a finale of edges and a big jug at the end. Well placed bolts make for easy clipping and fun rides on this slightly overhanging wall.

Location

four routes right of Last of the Mohicans

Protection

bolts

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
this is a superb route with pumpy climbing leading to a pretty brutal mono move. excellent stone and perfect protection. Jun 15, 2015
Dustin Stephens
  5.12a
Dustin Stephens  
  5.12a
Didn't encounter any monos on this one. Excellent power-endurance face climbing on perfect rock. A touch harder than Mohicans IMO. May 18, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
Well I guess you could use alternate holds, but I think the mono is the easiest option.

Woah, what a sustained route and it is indeed in a crescendo. Super fun to read and I would be tempted to say a tad harder than TLOTM just nearby. Less cruxy, I think the harder moves of TLOTM are harder than any single move on that one but I can't imagine getting close to linking Orphans. I would need a winter of gym training....

For those like me who are scared of monos: well if you're super-human like Dustin you can probably use alternatives. Otherwise it's no so bad a mono and not the hardest move of the route, so provided you pulled the other ones you're probably fine to just stick it in there... Aug 4, 2017