Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (g) Tippling Tower

Mea Culpa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Robin Barley, April 2006
Page Views: 362 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Jul 1, 2011
Admins: Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Amazingly exposed and fun for the grade. Up a series of overhanging ledges with a bunch of air underneath your feet. Huge fun, get on it.

Location

It's the southernmost route on the crag, basically facing south where the other routes on the crag face west. Tackle the arete.

Protection

9 bolts. I couldn't find the anchors from the ground, but you *can* see them. Runners on bolts 2, 3 and 5 might help with drag.

Photos

- No Photos -
Great fun! Takes you all over the place on fun holds and jams. +1 for yellow metolius for the insecure move up high. I wouldn't want to take that fall either. Sep 24, 2014
I don't think it's 7530 feet long Oct 11, 2013
The awe-inspiring sight of tippling tower becomes clearly visible as you come up through the fern gully boulder and should be reason enough to try this route. That said, it is not recommended for the beginner 5.9-leader as the route is not obvious, the climbing feels very exposed, and the clips can be awkward with ugly consequences for a mistake in the wrong place. I used a grey (0.4) C4 before the 7th clip and then removed it after making the next clip to mitigate rope drag - made the move feel much nicer. Highly recommended, the highlight of our trip! Aug 7, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Did this route again last weekend. Seems when I wrote the topo I'd forgotten about the crux quickdraw on the seventh (I think?) clip.

By this point you're on a comfortable ledge maybe three or four feet above your last draw. There's a chopped bolt where your shoulder is, and a bolt roughly two feet out of reach. Clipping this draw can only really happen from an extremely insecure position as your feet are all out left and the roof is pushing you out right over the void. Blowing the clip from this position could be very nasty, there's some sharp blocks beneath the face.

I'd say bring something around a yellow Metolius if you're worried about taking a bad fall on an otherwise amazing climb. You can clean the cam after the clip to avoid rope drag. May 22, 2012