Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Dark Rhythm

5.10c, Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.4 from 37 votes
FA: M. Hanna, C Greyell, D. Whitelaw
Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mt… > Darrington > Exfoliation Dome > Blueberry Hill & Prox…

Description

This 8 pitch beauty sends you up slabs and cracks to Blueberry terrace which is just a little below the summit that is Exfoliation dome. The crux is "The Flange" on pitch 4 but there is plenty of other 10A pitches along the way to keep your head in the game. Be prepared for moderately spaced bolts as is the norm in slab climbing. All of the chains are Fixe rap chains, but DO NOT rap this route as flakes will EAT your rope and make for a horible trip down.

To rap off, either climb the three bonus pitches to the summit and rap off into the gully on the west side of the summit, or rap of Blueberry terrace via Jacobs Ladder on the east side of the terrace, or connect with Westward Ho by rapping off the climber right side of the terrace. Westward Ho from the summit starts with 5 single rope rappels, then doubles from here. All rappels of the terrace should be done with double ropes.

Pitch 1 5.7 Climb up and right passed moderatly spaced bolts till you reach the first set of chains. 45M

Pitch 2 5.10A Climb up and right passed bolts to a clean swath of slab with a 10a move then over a lip on the right and up to the chains. 40M

Pitch 3 5.10a Climb up and left to a series of flakes with bolts and small gear for protection, be careful on the flakes as they are fragile, then head directly up to chains. 40M

Pitch 4 5.10c Climb straight up past 4-5 bolts to "The Flange". One starts out under the left side of the flange then traverses right to its base. Climb up along the right side of the lip on small nobs and friction moves. Very sustained pitch. 45M

Pitch 5 5.9+ Climb up past the flange then head left to a thin crack system using small gear and a couple bolts for protection. Once on the crack proper climb straight up until you reach the chains, a couple very small offset nuts will protect the upper moves well. I think a block has broken off this section in the last year making the last couple moves a little harder and scarier. 35M

Pitch 6 5.10A Climb up and left over a series of lips until you reach a large ledge system with a belay on the left hand side. 40M

Pitch 7 5.8 Head off right on the ledge before heading up and making a bold but easy move to reach the first bolt, a hand size cam behind the first block can protect from a long painful fall. Continue up clean slab off to the left until you reach the chains. 40M

Pitch 8 5.5 Continue up and left along sparsly protected but easy slab to the finish. This section can hold water late into the year, so creative route finding might ensue.

At this point you have reached Blueberry Terrace. You can rap from here as described above or continue up the last three pitches. Description is as follows. Head climbers left on the ledge and traverser above the Jacob's ladder chains until you reach a small bush about 30 feet below your first bolt. At this point you should be practically around the corner above the eastern gully system.

Pitch 1 5.8 Climb up past the first bolt using gear were possible then head left and back right through a crack sytem to the first set of chains. 30M

Pitch 2 5.8 Head straight up 40 feet to the first bolt then off left and through a small gully between two larger blocks, the chains will be directly above and to your left. 40M

Pitch 3 5.5 From here one can traverese to the ridge proper and head up, or just pick the most appealing line that heads up to the summit through either dry or easy climbing. About 30M to the summit, all gear.

Location

This route is located on Exfoliation Dome which is across the Clear Creek Valley from Three o'clock rock. About 0.5-1 mile before the Squire creek pass trailhead (3 o'clock rock) turn left and cross Clear Creek. Follow the road till its end, if you don't mind a few scrathes on your purdy little vehicle. At the end of the road is a washout that has come down from the Granite Sidewalk, you can see the dome from here. Head up the gully on the left and climb the sidewalk for 1200 vertical feet to the base of Exfoliation Dome and hope your calfs are still ready for some good slab climbing. When you reach the top of the sidewalk there is a patch of trees that marks the start of the Blueberry route. Just below this is a largish tree, head about 100-150 feet left of this and look for a single bolt that marks the start of the route.

Protection

A small rack with gear to 2-inches, bring a few extra small sizes and some tiny offsets for pitch 5, and a few bigger pieces if you want to do the three bonus pitches to the summit. 14-16 draws should be enough and a few alpine draws wouldn't hurt. Also do not climb on this wall without TWO ROPES or getting down will be scary if not out right deadly.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topping out pitch 4
[Hide Photo] Topping out pitch 4
Dark Rhythm pitch 3, contemplating the flexi-flake above
[Hide Photo] Dark Rhythm pitch 3, contemplating the flexi-flake above
Looking down on pitch 5 from the belay.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on pitch 5 from the belay.
Start-ish of the first of the topout pitches from Blueberry Terrace.  options for belay, this is where we landed. The bolt can be hard to see.
[Hide Photo] Start-ish of the first of the topout pitches from Blueberry Terrace. options for belay, this is where we landed. The bolt can be hard to see.
Start of Dark Rhythm P1.  Nice belay spot, can be hard to spot the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Start of Dark Rhythm P1. Nice belay spot, can be hard to spot the first bolt.
Looking down at the first pitch of the three summit pitches. Blueberry Terrace is off to the left.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the first pitch of the three summit pitches. Blueberry Terrace is off to the left.
Contemplating the crux moves of getting up onto the sustained Flange, pitch 4.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the crux moves of getting up onto the sustained Flange, pitch 4.
Following pitch 3 Dark Rhythm.
[Hide Photo] Following pitch 3 Dark Rhythm.
Looking up at Exfo Dome from the trailhead
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Exfo Dome from the trailhead

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Coltrane
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] As of 07-10-11 there has been some rockfall on the second and third pitch so the belay at the top of the second pitch may not be there, heven't got a chance to climb up to it yet. Will try to fix it as soon as possible. Jul 11, 2011
Chris Joosse
Tacoma, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Rap beta: don't rap the route, it eats ropes. On the way up, we found a perfectly good bail 'biner and didn't understand why someone would bail there. On the way down, sure enough, the rope chocked behind a flake and we had to re-lead up to free it- right to that bolt. We left the temporarily-bootied biner where we found it. :-) Aug 1, 2011
Chris Joosse
Tacoma, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Approach beta: as you cross the granite sidewalk on the approach during the early part of the season, pay attention- the sidewalk is what it is because it's an avalanche track. Aug 1, 2011
Andrew Jylkka
Vancouver, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today, definitely a beauty and worth getting on. We only used a .5, .75, and 1 C4 on P5 and P7, you really don't need to carry any more than that unless you plan to do the bonus 3 pitches (we didn't have time). Rapping down Westward Ho was the easiest thing to find unless you know the locations of the anchors on Jacob's Ladder beforehand.

Another note: there has definitely been some rock fall that has affected some of the bolts and anchors. None of them were so bad that we were scared of the quality, but it is worth knowing about. One of the bolts on the anchor of P2 (if we're remembering correctly) was almost flat and I had to build the anchor using the rap ring instead.

P3 has a super bendy/loose flake near the top left of the pitch. Be very careful pulling over it. May 31, 2015
[Hide Comment] If we're talking about the bare minimum gear to get up this route, I really recommend a small nut in addition to the cams. I'm not exactly sure on the size, but I think BD #4-6 (7mm-9mm) is what you want for the end of pitch 5. Pulling this move without the nut is far scarier than anything you'll encounter on the summit pitches with only those 3 cams and slings. Aug 26, 2020
Mhopper Hopper
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Brian led us up all 11 pitches to the summit on 8/25/2020.

If you have a high clearance vehicle then you should ignore the location approach info about 'Follow the road till its end'. It appears as though the road goes past the approach point for the granite sidewalk. It should be pretty obvious at a nice large pull off on the right after the second washout. See the approach info for 'exfoliation dome' area.

The second or third bolt was missing on P1. Nothing you would be too concerned about if you're ready for 10c slab. Throughout the day we could see occasional flattened hangers, so double reason to bring some nuts.

All the rap stations were in good condition and no snags heading down Westward Ho from the summit. Aug 27, 2020
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Hardware is in good shape: one missing hanger on pitch 1 and occasional spinners. Bring a socket wrench and be a hero!

We took a single rack to 2" and 12 draws/slings and found both about right. Hauling 14-16 seems excessive. Aug 15, 2022
Ajay Sap
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Took a minute to find the start of the route. When near the end of the sidewalk and you feel like you are very close to the start of the buttress look for a giant old growth stump and traverse climbers left and little down.

Pitch 3-5 were really good. A small #3 nut protects the runout on 5.

For rapping off to the top of westward ho, look for an intermediate rap on gnarled dead tree jutting out of the rock, look climbers right when in the gully. Not sure we actually rapped WH but there bolts and anchors all over the place once on the clean slabs. Aug 8, 2023
Daniel Heins
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Added pic for start of route, took a sec for us to see the bolt. Ditto for the first pitch off the Terrace.

At chains at the top of the route proper (so top of P8) there's a bit of vegetation you just need to barrel through to get onto the Terrace, it's fine but not as clear as you might've expected.

Summitting from the ridge after unroping was a bit bushwhack-y, don't let that dissuade you.

Definitely recommend using the forest approach north of the sidewalk to get established on the sidewalk above the Grotto (see the approach trail description/GPX), rather than shenanigans to get over the Grotto/cliff described in some guidebooks if you just go up the gulley.

Agree about the small nut - green DMM was solid (and would've been uncomfortable otherwise).

Hardware status is same in 2024 as Curt noted (I forgot to bring my little wrench unfortunately). Jun 22, 2024