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Routes in Orange Sunshine area

Cactus Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Columns Holiday T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-eyed and Painless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cutting Edge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancing Madly Backwards S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Developing Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entrance Exam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jam Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Sunshine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overlord, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paul Maul T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Price of Complacency, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rap Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rough Boys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serpent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solar King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stress Management S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thriller Pillar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thriller Pillar, Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Western Front T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
X-Factor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz January, 1989
Page Views: 2,160 total, 27/month
Shared By: Noah D on Jun 28, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fun, balancy moves up the face to an overhang crux where great holds appear and keep it 5.9.

Location

On the pillar just left of the Orange Sunshine split thin cracks on the far right side of the wall.

Protection

QDs. Chains on top.

Photos

A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.9+
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.9+
I found this to be an incredibly sketchy climb to set up a top rope because of the positioning of the last bolt.

I'm not sure if I missed a bolt or not but I believe the last bolt on this climb is right before the hard move to the big jug up top. Once you pull past this steep bit the climb is basically over and you surmount a ledge to the anchors.

If your follower falls after they unclip that last bolt (which is possible, those moves are pumpy up there) they are going to take a gnarly swing around the arete and into the corner.

Did I miss a bolt? Or should we be advising people to bring up some gear for a directional near the anchors? Nov 5, 2015
Andrew Davidson
Everett, WA
 
Andrew Davidson   Everett, WA
 
There are no Chains or Rap rings at the top. The hangers look to be the 1/4" thick steel and people have been just running their ropes through them. Oct 12, 2015
Bren Tallen
Concord, NH
  5.9+
Bren Tallen   Concord, NH
  5.9+
There is a good mix of climbing technique and climbing styles you encounter on this moderate sport climb. Hone your crimpy slab technique, arete climbing, vertical face, and mini-roof styling in one run. I really enjoyed getting onto this 5.9+ for that reason alone. Watch out for Rattlesnakes on the approach and near the walls if you're going during the warm months. . They mostly stayed away from us. Nov 13, 2013
JimM  
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz January, 1989 Oct 9, 2011