Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz January, 1989
Page Views: 2,450 total · 27/month
Shared By: Noah D on Jun 28, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fun, balancy moves up the face to an overhang crux where great holds appear and keep it 5.9.

Location

On the pillar just left of the Orange Sunshine split thin cracks on the far right side of the wall.

Protection

QDs. Chains on top.

Photos

JimM  
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz January, 1989 Oct 9, 2011
Bren Tallen
Concord, NH
  5.9+
Bren Tallen   Concord, NH
  5.9+
There is a good mix of climbing technique and climbing styles you encounter on this moderate sport climb. Hone your crimpy slab technique, arete climbing, vertical face, and mini-roof styling in one run. I really enjoyed getting onto this 5.9+ for that reason alone. Watch out for Rattlesnakes on the approach and near the walls if you're going during the warm months. . They mostly stayed away from us. Nov 13, 2013
Andrew Davidson
Everett, WA
 
Andrew Davidson   Everett, WA
 
There are no Chains or Rap rings at the top. The hangers look to be the 1/4" thick steel and people have been just running their ropes through them. Oct 12, 2015
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.9+
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.9+
I found this to be an incredibly sketchy climb to set up a top rope because of the positioning of the last bolt.

I'm not sure if I missed a bolt or not but I believe the last bolt on this climb is right before the hard move to the big jug up top. Once you pull past this steep bit the climb is basically over and you surmount a ledge to the anchors.

If your follower falls after they unclip that last bolt (which is possible, those moves are pumpy up there) they are going to take a gnarly swing around the arete and into the corner.

Did I miss a bolt? Or should we be advising people to bring up some gear for a directional near the anchors? Nov 5, 2015