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Icy Fingers

5.8, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Bill Kees, 1974 (according to Johnston & Fowler, 2005)
Colorado > Telluride/Norwo… > Ophir > Cracked Canyon

Description

Climb the wide-ish crack system, with a few chimney-ish moves enroute to the top. Pro either the back of the crack, or find ancillary placements on the adjacent faces. This is nicely sustained with great stances where needed.

Note: This is route #25 in Johnston and Fowler (2005:93), who apparently gave it the incorrect name and rating. I was informed by a knowledgeable local (who has climbed with Mr. Kees) that this is actually the crack named "Icy Fingers", and is not Limey Peel. (Apparently, no one knows exactly where Limey Peel really is). And the next crack to the right (#26) is not Icy Fingers, but is a ~5.9 of unknown name.

If anyone knows this information to be in error, let me know and I will amend.

Location

This is located on the western wall, a couple hundred feet up from the canyon mouth, a little ways left of Orange Peel.

Bolts with webbing/cord and biners provide a top anchor.

Protection

Single rack of cams; a #4 C4 is useful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Icy Fingers (5.8), Cracked Canyon, Ophir, CO.
[Hide Photo] Icy Fingers (5.8), Cracked Canyon, Ophir, CO.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bracksieck
[Hide Comment] This route description is correct for the real Icy Fingers. The next obvious crack to the right of the real Icy Fingers is Tee Hee (5.9+). I led Mike Clifford up Tee Hee in the late ‘80s. I recall that it was listed in an older guidebook. Aug 6, 2022