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Routes in Spooner Crag

Caught in a Mosh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crimp Tuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire and Ice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forget About It S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangar 18 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jello Wars S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maxwell's Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Cap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nightcrawler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pool S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pot Belly S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spoonman S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stepping Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yellow Finger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 264 total, 3/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description

Start on sloping ground right of the first bolt. Pull up and then do a strenous lieback with your right hand while your left makes a BIG reach for a pocket (this move is much more difficult if you are under 5'10''). Continue traversing up and left on pockets. After the second bolt, the difficulties ease. Catch your breath and head to the top.

The direct start looks like hard 5.12.

Location

The line just left of Nightcap's first pitch.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel chains. The first bolt protects the traverse in, but is a strenous clip. The fourth bolt and anchor are shared by Nightcap.
Kung Phu Panda
South Lake Tahoe, California
5.11a PG13
Kung Phu Panda   South Lake Tahoe, California
5.11a PG13
I just worked the route today. 10+ if your over six feet, 11a if your under 5'10". Sep 16, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
If anyone knows the FA party and/or the real name of this route, let me know and I'll change it. Not sure if the climb is actually 5.10+, but as Gill says it's just a very reachy and commiting move. Jun 27, 2011