Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Monkey Swing

5.10+, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 19 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Western Nevada > Lake Tahoe Area > Spooner Crag > Main Rock

Description

Start on sloping ground right of the first bolt. Pull up and then do a strenous lieback with your right hand while your left makes a BIG reach for a pocket (this move is much more difficult if you are under 5'10''). Continue traversing up and left on pockets. After the second bolt, the difficulties ease. Catch your breath and head to the top.

The direct start looks like hard 5.12.

Location

The line just left of Nightcap's first pitch.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel chains. The first bolt protects the traverse in, but is a strenous clip. The fourth bolt and anchor are shared by Nightcap.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Monkey Swing!!
[Hide Photo] The Monkey Swing!!
At around the 2nd bolt.
[Hide Photo] At around the 2nd bolt.
Charles working the overhanging moves.
[Hide Photo] Charles working the overhanging moves.
The classic Yosemite shoulder stand.
[Hide Photo] The classic Yosemite shoulder stand.
Josh gearing up for the BIG reach/swing.
[Hide Photo] Josh gearing up for the BIG reach/swing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] If anyone knows the FA party and/or the real name of this route, let me know and I'll change it. Not sure if the climb is actually 5.10+, but as Gill says it's just a very reachy and commiting move. Jun 27, 2011
Kung Phu Panda
South Lake Tahoe, California
5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] I just worked the route today. 10+ if your over six feet, 11a if your under 5'10". Sep 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] Not sure who equipped this route. We used to do the initial crux boulder problem to the giant pocket where the 2nd bolt is, then drop off. Not onto pads. Pretty dumb, glad someone bolted it. Mar 29, 2025