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> St Vrain Canyons
> Middle Fork of…
> Piz Badille
> West-Northwest Face
Reusable Love Bag
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 3
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Routes in West-Northwest Face
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Reusable Love Bag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ridge, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sympathetic Mind Fuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | (lower portion) Alvino Pon, Eddie Pain, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 1,050 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mitch Musci on Jun 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route starts near the middle of the main face next to a large pine tree. It shares the first bolt with Too Many Puppies. Scramble up a moderate slab to an open cold shut, then bust left through a series of small roofs (crux) and continue up an immaculate slab to a two bolt rappel anchor. With a 70m, we could reach the ground fine, a 60m MAY just make it...tie knots! As of 6/11, the anchor bolts were a terrible looking, rusted buttonhead with a homemade hanger, and a rusted wedge bolt with a beefy Metolius rap hanger. Gillett's guide notes a second pitch which continues up and left past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9-). A third pitch goes up at 5.9 R to a single bolt anchor. More options may exist above (apparently a project?).
Forgive me, as I have only climbed the first pitch but thought others might be psyched to at least know there is excellent cragging here.
Forgive me, as I have only climbed the first pitch but thought others might be psyched to at least know there is excellent cragging here.
3 Comments