Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West-Northwest Face

Reusable Love Bag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ridge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sympathetic Mind Fuck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: (lower portion) Alvino Pon, Eddie Pain, 1993
Page Views: 223 total · 3/month
Shared By: Mitch Musci on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route starts near the middle of the main face next to a large pine tree. It shares the first bolt with Too Many Puppies. Scramble up a moderate slab to an open cold shut, then bust left through a series of small roofs (crux) and continue up an immaculate slab to a two bolt rappel anchor. With a 70m, we could reach the ground fine, a 60m MAY just make it...tie knots! As of 6/11, the anchor bolts were a terrible looking, rusted buttonhead with a homemade hanger, and a rusted wedge bolt with a beefy Metolius rap hanger. Gillett's guide notes a second pitch which continues up and left past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9-). A third pitch goes up at 5.9 R to a single bolt anchor. More options may exist above (apparently a project?).

Forgive me, as I have only climbed the first pitch but thought others might be psyched to at least know there is excellent cragging here.

Protection

P1 - 6 bolts plus small to medium cams.

Photos

- No Photos -
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
If you climb to the top, you probably don't want to go to the P3 single bolt anchor. While climbing P3, trend left instead of going through the steeper part of the dihedral roof (bad rock). You might not see the kinfeblade mentioned in the previous post until you are at it. After that, find your way up easier ground to the summit. There were occasional 1 bolt anchors here and there. Ends up being about 5-6 pitches in total. Sep 29, 2016
On Oct 9, 1994, I led Brenda Leach up the whole climb to the top and walked off. The third bolt on pitch two had a red ribbon. I clipped it and continued up, trending a bit left, clipping an old two-bolt anchor along the way. On third pitch, I clipped a fixed pin under the left end of the long upper roof, turned the roof on the left, and followed easier terrain. Near the top, we moved right and crawled through a bulge in the moonlight. Jul 2, 2012

More About Reusable Love Bag

Printer-Friendly Guide