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Routes in Moutier

Arête Spécial 5c+ S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 267 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

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Description

A classic and unique climb up an amazingly exposed fin of rock, rising above a river and train-track tunnels. It makes a pleasant half-day outing if you're in the area.

P1: Scamper up the damp gully, and then make three moves up the right-side face to get on the ridge (no need to belay in the gully as in the topo). 5a+. Direct starts up the ridge have some fixed gear, 6b/6b+.

P2. Immediately exposed and more technical climbing: stay left and clip maybe only four bolts for 60' of climbing, 5c+.

P3. Cross the nearly-horizontal, very narrow ridge to the base of the next face. 3b.

P4. Wicked fun! Stay right for maximum exposure. Trust those feet. Here I think we used a #1 C4 and a nut at some point. 5c+.

P5. Even funner! Perfect limestone, big pockets and little feet, fun move around the left side corner to the top, just wish it was longer. 5c+.

Location

An 'only in Switzerland' approach:
From the Moutier train station, walk west towards the obvious ridges of rock. As the town ends, you'll pass an SAC hut, and then see signs to the start of the route.
10 minutes of via ferrata alongside the river takes you to the start of the climb -- a lot of work went into making the approach! Can be done in flip-flops, but better with approach shoes...

Descend by hiking down a path back into town. Just keep going up and right after summiting, eventually you'll hit the path. Rappelling down the gorge is possible, but not recommended (and needs 2 x 60 m, must have helmets.

Protection

12 draws, maybe take a few medium cams / nuts. Sportingly bolted! Two bolts in all the anchors.
Pitches are short, no need to rappel: a single 60 is even overkill. Guidebooks recommend 2 x 50 m.

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