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Routes in Frontier Wall

Conundrum, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glad Hander T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gnatty Dread T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gordoba T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just Drive, She Said T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss Me Where I Pee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meatlocker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Prom Queen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rites of Passage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rusty Thinking T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Todd Battey & Dave Stahl, April 1988
Page Views: 325 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jun 26, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Moderate climbing leads up and right to the crux dihedral. Here the rock is fabulous - solid with superb friction. A very difficult chimney move gets you up into the dihedral, where you can use "dished out" features of the left wall for your feet. I've never climbed a 5.11 crack that required more leg strength or less arm strength - all pushing and no pulling.

Location

This is near the center of the wall. A corner wanders up and right below an overhang to a flared chimney.

Protection

emphasis on thin gear for the crack in the back of the chimney

Photos

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Such a hard chimney move that I opted for lybacking the arete to the right.5.11a?!I was told the dihedral used to have 3 pins in it. 1 now.Whatever grade you want to call it.It's the hardest route on the wall. Jun 28, 2011
Murf  
Roger - I've never met anyone who has done this route! It looks like protecting the dihedral would be difficult. Given a good selection of gear, is this route fairly safe? Jun 27, 2011