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Routes in Norwich Ledge

Bazinga! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Saturdays T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Parmotrema Arnoldii T WI5-6 M7+ A0 PG13
Route to Glory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stritch Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Urushiol T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walt's Crawlers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Josh Warfield and AJ Smith
Page Views: 1,008 total, 13/month
Shared By: AJ Smith on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

You & This Route


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Description

Shares 2 pitches with "Book of Saturdays", but removes the first pitch and the long traverse. Pitch 1- Starts on a large slab with thin cracks for protection, then traverses over to large grass filled crack. Pulling grass can reveal the pro. Large cams or large hexes are a must. Wild country #6? . Pitch 2- Belay stance is to the left of the major grassy chimney of the second pitch; Use small nuts to protect belay. Look for stuck Omega Pacific nut to find out where to set up belay. Follow the large chimney up to the roof. Some protection can be found by venturing out onto the slab, but stay mostly to the chimney. Crux can be found right before the cave area. Pull a couple of exposed moves, and Metoliuschimney up a large overhanging crack. Traverse into the cave area. Watch the loose rock, and maintain your footing. Pitch 3-Belay from the cave area; protecting this can be tricky, but there should be a protectable crack out and around the corner of the cave. Look for a stuck nut to give you and idea where to place. Head out the cave and around the arete. Easy pulls up to the top of the climb. Top out and enjoy the view!

Location

See description

Protection

Bring a lot of gear. A few large cams would not hurt as "O Sh*t pieces". Metolius flaring nuts are extremely helpful. They hold perfectly int he smaller cracks.

Photos

jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
AJ, can you put your pic back up with your line? I just did a direct start to BOS and wondering if it is your route? I thought it was only 5.6/7 slab to the chimney directly below the roof so I think I might have climbed another variation as it was no where close to 5.9. Sep 21, 2015
Evan B.  
Did this route last weekend and had a blast, defenitley an adventure for sure! I thought about bailing after coming face to face with the belay cave after pitch two, which offered very little in the way of an anchor, but eventually found suitable placements, and the view from the top was defenitley worth it! Just to clarify you only need a single rope for the raps, a thought which didn't enter my mind until i was halfway down the first rap haha. Jul 30, 2011
AJ Smith  
 
Nope, sorry! I miss labelled the route in the last photo. My bad. Jun 28, 2011
Brandon Snyder
Marquette MI
Brandon Snyder   Marquette MI
the last 2 pitches of BOS are located about 70 feet to climbers left from the line in the pic so i'm wondering if this is an entire new route the description sounds like the last 2 pitches of BOS Jun 26, 2011