Type: Trad, 1060 ft (321 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross (Var Leads)
Page Views: 1,032 total · 7/month
Shared By: Paul Ross on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

Named after a route on the Chalk cliffs on the coast of Southern England. Apart from one pitch a climb designed for the bad rock connoisseurs.A one star route with a four star view from its summit.Good practice for Alpine. Walk into Two Finger Canyon and its the first big light colored slab/pillar on the right.

P1)Follow the crack then over an overlap (bolt). Move left passed another bolt then up to ledge and double anchors.160'5.8.
P2) Continue up an easy slab for a 100' to a bolt that protects a nice steeper loose section. continue another 100' to double anchors.200' 5.7.
P3).Walk 50' to the start of a slab with good rock..Pull overlaps trending left to cam belays in big crack left side of bowl. 100' 5.6
P4) From here fourth class 600' up gullies to the summit and suberb views.

Descent:- The descent is the same as the Mile and a Bit Girdle Traverse of the Great White Wall. Just down to the right is a single bolt for a low angle 40' rap to a big ledge.Walk down to the right and at its end down climb 20' to double anchors.Rap about 160' double rope rap to a big ledge . Walk south to next rap anchors.Rap full 200'keeping on the south edge . From here to groung is 4th class scrambling. Climb down the short groove,trend south down a blocky corner then left along a long ledge ,at its end down an easy slab to the right and follow to the entrance on the canyon.

Location Suggest change

Two Fingers Canyon. South of the Great White Wall.A road into this Canyon can be found 2.4 miles from the Hanksville road entrance or 1.5 miles south of the turn off to Three Finger Canyon

Protection Suggest change

Cams 1/4" to 4", Slings ,set of stoppers. Two 60m ropes