PRINT: Climb Pimper's Paradise, Joe's Valley

Pimper's Paradise

V4, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),

Avg: 3 from 101 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > Right Fork > No Substance

Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! Details

Attention:

Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-

climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…

and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.

Description

On the backside of the Thriller boulder there are three problems that climb out a steep bulge feature. The V4 is the rightmost problem of the three and begins with a SDS on a low rail. Climb straight up and over. Excellent rock quality and an interesting sequence make this lowball totally worthwhile.

The new Joe's Valley guidebook has names for all three of these problems but also renames the boulder entirely along with its namesake Thriller problem. This had been known as Thriller V4 - Anyone know the real deal?

Protection

Crashpad and spotter if you're sketchy on mantles.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Troy pulling through on some of the coolest pockets at Joe's

Hitting the left pocket on the lip

Charlie at full extension on the Thriller V4.

Pimpers Paradise

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Fenner

V3-4

This is a great little problem, and safe to climb with no spotter. If you are shorter than 5'8" you may need to hop off your feet to hit the lip, it certainly makes that move more fun. Dec 1, 2014

Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT

There were quite a few V5 votes before MP merged duplicates together. Listed as V5 in both guides I believe. Mar 21, 2016

Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY

Great rock, but so short!
5'7 and have to jump for the lip Sep 18, 2016

Z D
Salt Lake City

This climb was originally graded V5 and I agree, especially if you can't reach the holds at the lip without jumping. If you're really tall and can keep your foot on it is probably v4. Oct 1, 2018

Deb Bie
Reno, NV

Reachy. Solid V4. I had to jump for the move at the lip. youtu.be/SoaRUEAxSg4 Jun 14, 2020

Pebble Pusher
Santa Rosa, CA

youtube.com/watch?v=HpfTmZs…

I really like how it made me contort my body to get in the right position to make the move to the good hold Nov 15, 2020

Sam Wilson
Asheville, NC

youtube.com/watch?v=EamNwG4…
I'm short and had to jump for the lip, but I think V4 is appropriate. Just doesn't hold up with other 5s at Joe's IMO. Apr 12, 2023

Karthik Sonty

FA: Jared Roth May 4, 2023

John Nguyen
SLC, UT

No shoes makes it v fun
youtube.com/shorts/INjUreFo… Oct 7, 2023