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Mad Hatter, The

5.10b, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Todd Swain and Dick Peterson, November 1989
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South > Central Wonderland > Disneyland Dome
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Pitch 1 (5.10B) is sustained thin face climbing, protected by four bolts. The crux is a short headwall at the top of the pitch. Pitch 2 (5.9) follows a steep arete. You can get good protection with RPs and stoppers. To descend, scramble down a bit and rappel off the back side. There is another Mad Hatter climb in Joshua Tree, on Hunk Rock near Barker Dam.

Location

This is on the right side of the southwest face, to the right of the long dike of Mental Bankruptcy, and to the right of the chimney where Fantasia starts.

Protection

standard rack, with four bolts on the first pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Potter Wonderland
Planet Earth
 
[Hide Comment] This route would be really good with some traffic. Currently it is quite loose and scrittly. The runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt is pretty heads up as you may zipper the old bolts with that fall..? Also the 4th bolt is hangerless but slings well with a nut. This is a long route with good climbing on it, worth a climb and hopefully cleans up a bit! Dec 19, 2021