Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 6
FA: Not sure
> N America
> British Columbia
From the Squamish Access Society website
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE
This route is awesome, so sad it doesn't appear to get climbed more. No pitch feels particularly harder than the others, just fun moderate slab, though slightly terrifying if you aren't used to it. Spot on for the grade in my opinion. Finish merging with last pitch of Unfinished Symphony.
Pitch 1:Start Snake, at first anchor head straight up, going left around a large tree. Belay on top of the tree.
Pitch 2: Climb 5.8 hand crack forever, it will thin out, gear to blue metolius. Clip bolt and traverse left to another bolt, then straight up through scoop.
Pitch 3: Climb straight up for a bolt or two, then straight right around the corner, bolts will great you on the other side, meet back with the headwall and pull a small bulge to get back onto the slab, traverse to anchors.
Pitch 4: Climb delicately and meet up with the last real pitch of Unfinished Symphony.
Head up first pitch of Snake, instead of traversing at the first anchor head straight up the crack at 5.8. My advice, setup first belay at past the tree...I didn't and had the gnarliest rope drag ever for the 11a slab pitch.
Bolts, well spaced slab attack. Small rack for the first pitch of snake and the 5.8ish crack leading up to the slab.