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Routes in Treunitzer Klettergarten

Air of December S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brennnesselvariante (R 1b) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Das Imbärium schlägt zurück S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direkte Talseite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Duell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Erster Streich (R 8) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Heiße Sohle (R12) S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Holzkeilriss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Kleine Helden S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Märchenprinz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Nimm's leicht S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pfeilerweg (R7) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rechter Pfeiler (R 2b) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rockys wunderbare Welt der Schwerkraft S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roots S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Räuchermännchen (R12c) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Streck Dich (R11) S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Talseite (R3) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Überholspur (R 9) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: K. Thon 1974
Page Views: 34 total, 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 22, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

The name translates to "Little Smoking Men" and is the little wooden incense-burning figures people put out around Christmas time.
This is one WEIRD 5.5! And I thought it was hard for 5.5 too. Struggle through the chimney clipping the first bolt and find a hold in the crack on the right while using a sloper or whatever you can with your left and work your feet up so you can get to a good stance. Work your way out of the chimney (face the valley) and eventually manage to get to your second bolt (at this point, if you fall before clipping the second bolt you might hit the ground). If you got this far, you can make it through the rest.
If you can't easily climb 5.8, don't try leading this.

Location

The chimney on the far right of the crag.

Protection

3 bolts + anchor

Photos

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