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Comes the Dervish
5.10c/d R,
Trad, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
FA: Stevie Haston, 1981
International
> Europe
> United Kingdom
> Wales
> Eryri NP
> Llanberis Pass
> Llanberis Slate…
> Vivian Quarry
Description
Probably "the most popular Extreme in Snowdonia". Originally given E5 6a, wear and tear has reduced the grade to E3 5c, and even that is a bit generous. First decent runners at 25' with a hard move ro reach them, so damage to ankles is possible. From there it's sustained but well-protected climbing up a crack to a good rest below the overlap at 80'. There's a tricky move round the overlap then easier above, but only tiny wires until the top.
Location
Standing outside Pete's Eats the line of The Dervish is obvious as a white line up the tallest slab in Vivian Quarry. Follow a path through the woods on the left, then traverse across a terrace, passing a "bad step".
Protection
Nuts and small cams but especially microwires (eg RP0s). Abseil descent.
![Comes the Dervish (E3 5c) from its base. Second runner is first substantive gear on the route at about 8m.]()
[Hide Photo] Comes the Dervish (E3 5c) from its base. Second runner is first substantive gear on the route at about 8m.
![Vivian Quarry - Dervish level]()
[Hide Photo] Vivian Quarry - Dervish level
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