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Comes the Dervish

5.10c/d R, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 4 from 9 votes
FA: Stevie Haston, 1981
International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Snowdonia > Llanberis Pass > Llanberis Slate… > Vivian Quarry

Description

Probably "the most popular Extreme in Snowdonia". Originally given E5 6a, wear and tear has reduced the grade to E3 5c, and even that is a bit generous. First decent runners at 25' with a hard move ro reach them, so damage to ankles is possible. From there it's sustained but well-protected climbing up a crack to a good rest below the overlap at 80'. There's a tricky move round the overlap then easier above, but only tiny wires until the top.

Location

Standing outside Pete's Eats the line of The Dervish is obvious as a white line up the tallest slab in Vivian Quarry. Follow a path through the woods on the left, then traverse across a terrace, passing a "bad step".

Protection

Nuts and small cams but especially microwires (eg RP0s). Abseil descent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Comes the Dervish (E3 5c) from its base.  Second runner is first substantive gear on the route at about 8m.
[Hide Photo] Comes the Dervish (E3 5c) from its base. Second runner is first substantive gear on the route at about 8m.
Vivian Quarry - Dervish level
[Hide Photo] Vivian Quarry - Dervish level

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] The route was supposedly cleaned for the first ascent using a knife nicked from Pete's Eats Mar 20, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
[Hide Comment] "Nicked " is English for stolen. Oct 9, 2015
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] As is "Rustled". Anyone would guess I'm a criminal. Oct 22, 2015
Will Maness
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route, incredible area! Last Tango in Paris was amazing too, led it in the golden hour, sun was setting, bathed the rock in golden rays...just amazing. Oct 31, 2017
Daniel Heins
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, you can see from the ground the .75 cam slot that has your first real gear pretty easily. If you are fine with this initial runout, then you are somewhat fine without brassies, as a lot of the slots actually take surprisingly large wires. There still is an upper runout on easier ground above the break without brassies though. Apr 22, 2019
Daniel Heins
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Looks like it is gone. Farewell to a lovely climb, glad to have gotten on it when I did. ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_… May 1, 2023