Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vivian Quarry

Comes the Dervish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flash Dance T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Nostromo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Stevie Haston, 1981
Page Views: 424 total, 5/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Probably "the most popular Extreme in Snowdonia". Originally given E5 6a, wear and tear has reduced the grade to E3 5c, and even that is a bit generous. First decent runners at 25' with a hard move ro reach them, so damage to ankles is possible. From there it's sustained but well-protected climbing up a crack to a good rest below the overlap at 80'. There's a tricky move round the overlap then easier above, but only tiny wires until the top.

Location

Standing outside Pete's Eats the line of The Dervish is obvious as a white line up the tallest slab in Vivian Quarry. Follow a path through the woods on the left, then traverse across a terrace, passing a "bad step".

Protection

Nuts and small cams but especially microwires (eg RP0s). Abseil descent.

Photos

Will Maness
Raleigh, NC
 
Will Maness   Raleigh, NC
 
Awesome route, incredible area! Last Tango in Paris was amazing too, led it in the golden hour, sun was setting, bathed the rock in golden rays...just amazing. Oct 31, 2017
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
  5.10d PG13
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
  5.10d PG13
As is "Rustled". Anyone would guess I'm a criminal. Oct 22, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
"Nicked " is English for stolen. Oct 9, 2015
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
  5.10d PG13
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
  5.10d PG13
The route was supposedly cleaned for the first ascent using a knife nicked from Pete's Eats Mar 20, 2013