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Routes in Cedar point

Chica Bonita S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chubby Girls Wearing Shower Curtains T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crazy Yahoos shooting shit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Domino Effect S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gomez, Lopez, Fitzgerald S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Birthday to Me T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La mére à Luc pis des burritos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Macguffin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Not Contrived Fejaitah S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poop Deck S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schmucks Unlimited S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shaved Bird S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tequila and Limestone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Theme Night Direct T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theme night T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Torpedoes and Jellyfish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk the plank S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waterspout , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yodeling Yak S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yousqué ta cell? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
fe-JAI-tah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b V5 6C
tor-TIL-ah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V2 5+
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: FFA- Ian Lingley, Tom Anderson
Page Views: 270 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

You & This Route


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Description

Stick clip the first bolt, one move will get you to a nice jug. Climb the weirdly featured face past the second bolt. Clip the third bolt from the right side, and then pull over the top. Shares an anchor with Tor-Til-Ah.

Location

This a 3 bolt sport climb located on a ledge in the very back of the quarry.

Protection

3 bolts 2 raprings
stick clip first bolt

Photos

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Ian Lingley
Grand Bay-Westfield
 
Ian Lingley   Grand Bay-Westfield  
 
I think it’s crazy that the first bolt on this climb was chopped and moved left for a contrived 5.12 variation that could have been climbed by stick clipping the second bolt, or by climbing a little left of the original bolt placement.
Sport climbing is not about putting the bolts were you want people to climb. Sport climbing is about finding a NATURAL line that does not provide natural protection, and then you add the bolts accordingly.
If you don’t want to bolt another 5.10 and want to put up something hard, then find something hard. Please don’t try to make a hard climb. Feb 22, 2012
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10c/d
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10c/d
It's now recommended to stick-clip the 2nd bolt on this route as the 1st bolt has been moved left to accomodate the original line Dec 6, 2011