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Routes in The Fishbowl

Bottom Feeder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Carp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fishin' for a Tuesday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hagfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Life Aquatic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
PHISH a.k.a. "Barracuda" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Righteous and the Wicked, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Static Experience S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trouser Trout S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Carl Gostola
Page Views: 368 total · 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Is it a crack climb? Is it a slabby smear-fest? Is it a pocket pulling parade? This fantastic route is all that and more making it the ultimate static experience.

If you like thought provoking, technical climbs that require gorilla strength, ballet dancer finesse and absolutely no dynamic moves whatsoever, then look no further. This climb is calling your name!

This climb is awesome! The rock is bulletproof, black as night, and in some places it gets smooth as a baby's butt. A very asthetic line. The technical nature of the climbing makes this route a difficult onsight to be proud of if you are not quite leading at the 5.11 grade yet. For those seeking harder grades this route is a perfect warm-up for the rest of the climbs on the wall. Do not bypass this climb! Get on it and git r' done!

Location

Getting to the Fishbowl Wall is a bit of a hike. Getting to Static Experience is just a bit more of a hike. When you locate Carp and Bottom Feeder just keep heading to the left and down the hill.
Shimmy around a bend and up the hill until you see two, shiny bolt lines. Static Experience is the first climb (the climb on the right) that you will see on a black wall that appears to slope away from you. The climb to the left of Static Experience is a worthy 5.11 that will have you scratching your head wondering what to do next.

Protection

Take eight quickdraws. Static Experience is not as pumpy as Carp, but it will get on you right at the second bolt. Make sure your belayer is paying attention since many a fine climber have been pitched off due to mistakes in technique rather than fatigue.

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Your on the wrong route bud. No roof anywhere near static experience. Get a guide book and try again. Sep 29, 2015
BBQ
  5.10c
BBQ  
  5.10c
I have NEVER encountered choss on this route. And if the choss you removed didn't break your belayer's foot, then the route you did climb is ready for climbers. Just be sure to save some for the rest of us to bust off. Sep 29, 2015
BBQ
  5.10c
BBQ  
  5.10c
So is the one star and choss comment for Static Experience or for The Righteous and the Wicked? Cuz if it is directed at Righteous, which is considered a classic, then you're gonna cause some more overly sensitive locals to become irate. We have each others' backs here, bud. And yes, we do get out. I go to Colorado a lot to climb and can't wait to come back home. Sep 29, 2015
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
We're just climbing around on rocks people... The beginning of Righteous IS chossy. Look at my original description. I was able to clean it to a safe and climbable state when I established the route, what, 15 years ago? I would not be surprised if some rock has loosened over the years. Several ascents since mine should have kept it somewhat clean, but these routes don't see a ton of traffic. A little TLC could bring it back to tip-top (aka classic) shape. Enjoy. Sep 29, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.10c
Franck Vee  
  5.10c
The beginning of Static feels rather stiff for 10c - or maybe it just was my first climb of the day and I was rusty.

It's a good climb, but IMO more one you would do if in the area than one you would hike to get too...it's a bit far off the path for Blue Sky and there are so many great climbs there anyways. Although there isn't as much 10s, so if 10 is your grade this makes it worthwhile (it also has a sister 10c nearby).

My partner broke off a flake about the 4th bolt - she was a bit more to the right than I was (I was in the crack at that point), but not WAY right. Diner plate kind of size.

Also just after the first climb of the wall (The 11c), there was a very sizable rock fall (the kind that fucks off the trees on its way and that will yield weirdly deformed trees in a couple years for those it hasn't completely destroyed). Not an expert, but judging by the way the scars on those trees have (not so much) healed, I would say in the spring, perhaps even later than that. Impressive to see. Jul 30, 2017

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