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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 325 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Sonnenfeld & Steve Hong
Page Views: 2,157 total, 28/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Jun 20, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Deli is three pitches on great rock with great protection, but what else would you expect being on the West Face. The first pitch is 5.10 with a balancy crux coming about mid way up (120 ft). The second pitch is an enduro finger crack with no real crux, no real rest, and is a left foot killer (115 ft). The third pitch continues up a finger crack for about 30 ft until it dies, a couple of face moves bring you to a finger crack with jugs on the right face, great stances and great protection, place a piece and move to the face on good crimps for the last ten feet or so (90 ft). Hanging belays.

Location

Rappel Route

Protection

Great protection the whole way, a couple hand size pieces are good for the bottom, .4s and orange master cams are handy for the second and third pitch, as many number 5 thru 9 stoppers as you can carry, bolts at each anchor.

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
  5.11d
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
  5.11d
2nd and 3rd pitch anchors replaced by Joel McKillop and Lee Terveen on 10/22/16. 3rd pitch is worth doing as well. Not nearly as sustained as p2, but one or two moves that are harder. Protects well. Oct 24, 2016
Anchors on pitch one were replaced 10/2/2016 By Frank Sanders, Gabe Skiera, And Juliana Byrd. Oct 5, 2016
peicker
Lander, WY
  5.11c
peicker   Lander, WY
  5.11c
Climbed this route yesterday with Ben (who posted photo above). Pitch one was fun and had a delicate, balancey move getting to the anchor. Pitch two had amazing finger locks. I found it to be really sustained. Pitch three was overall far less sustained, but with a difficult, punchy little crux coming not far off the anchor.

Gear is great everywhere you want it. Overall a pretty spectacular climb. Jul 4, 2016
Ben Venter
Lander, WY
  5.11c
Ben Venter   Lander, WY
  5.11c
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
Deli Express is an excellent route that sees little traffic. One 70 m rope will get you down from the last pitch with just three rappels and a little 3rd class down-climbing at the bottom of the first pitch. Jul 23, 2011