[Hide Comment] If this line is climbed off the huge boulder it is in no way a 5.9. A tall person can reach the first hand jam and then jump to a jug but you will have no feet whatsoever. If you are short you can use a total crap crimper and jam a foot but that move is more like 11d-12a. However you do the bottom its more like hard 11. The next 10 feet are slab and very easy but pulling the off-width roof is damn hard. It's totally overhung and the good jams are about 3 feet back in the crack. That and having your foot locked at about the same height as your hands makes this much harder than 5.9. If you are going to TR it have a red bd c4 for a directional or be willing to core your rope on the knife edge overhang. I watched someone do that last year. Jul 26, 2011

[Hide Comment] Adam Volwiler is right, the 5.9 grade is a bit of a sandbag, although I believe it's consistent with Roskelley's original grade. Bouldering the lower roof all the way from the back to the point where you can stand up on top is (was) probably a V4. Kim Momb used to do laps on this lower roof, for training, back in the late 70s and early 80s. He would boulder from the back, topping out to a stand-up position above the lower roof, and then down climb all the way back down the full length of the roof.

If you do the jump start and climb the second roof the route is probably some kind of 5.10.

Enjoy! May 25, 2017