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Routes in Main Wall

Alfred Hitchcock Presents T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Apprentice Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diagonal , The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart Route T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Licks T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jam Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left of main crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love Bulge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maginot Line V2-3 5+
Main Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Open Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Open Book Direct T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peckerman Direct S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Peter Peckerman S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ron's Climb T,S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rusty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screaming Fingers T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smokey On Fire V8 7B
Smokey Overhang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starbabies S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left of Boston T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strawberry Jam T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tar Babies S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Y Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad
FA: John Roskelly '70
Page Views: 568 total, 7/month
Shared By: Scott Coldiron on Jun 20, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.

Location

Smokey Overhang ascends the obvious crack in the large roof on the right side of the main wall.

Protection

regular trad rack to 4"

Description

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.

Location

Smokey Overhang ascends the obvious crack in the large roof on the right side of the main wall.

Protection

regular trad rack to 4"

Photos

- No Photos -
Adam Volwiler is right, the 5.9 grade is a bit of a sandbag, although consistent with the original grade. Bouldering the lower roof all the way from the back to the point where you can stand up is (was) probably a V4. Kim Momb used to do laps on this lower roof, for training, back in the late 70s and early 80s. He would boulder to a stand-up position, starting from way back underneath and then climb all the way back down the full length of the roof.

If you do the jump start and climb the second roof the route is probably some kind of 5.10.

Enjoy! May 25, 2017
Chris Doll
Spokane
 
Chris Doll   Spokane
 
Fun route and the grade can change depending on where you start. I like to start on the big boulder and jam the crack on the first overhanging roof section (maybe a 10b). You can skip the crack by jumping to the first rail from the top of the boulder or another fun alternative start is to start on the diehedral corner of Rusty, then make your way up to the large crack of Smokey Overhang. Jul 11, 2013
Adam Volwiler
  5.10d PG13
Adam Volwiler  
  5.10d PG13
If this line is climbed off the huge boulder it is in no way a 5.9. A tall person can reach the first hand jam and then jump to a jug but you will have no feet whatsoever. If you are short you can use a total crap crimper and jam a foot but that move is more like 11d-12a. However you do the bottom its more like hard 11. The next 10 feet are slab and very easy but pulling the off-width roof is damn hard. It's totally overhung and the good jams are about 3 feet back in the crack. That and having your foot locked at about the same height as your hands makes this much harder than 5.9. If you are going to TR it have a red bd c4 for a directional or be willing to core your rope on the knife edge overhang. I watched someone do that last year. Jul 26, 2011