Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Old school most likely by the sounds of it.
Page Views: 149 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ian CB on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Start standing (maybe stack pads if you're short) left hand on the right hand you do the hard Alpine Club move off of and move to a small gaston out right. Go to the top after that. The real start might be really hard and will totally go.


Some pads, expect violent falls.


I did this problem while smoking a cigarette. Thus, I rated it V10 and called it "The Smoking Gun". Jun 19, 2011
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Damn Ian, nice work! Jun 19, 2011
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I agree with nicros on this one. Jun 20, 2011
Sorry Ian, I'm with Nic on this one for sure. By all means do and name variants but I think simply commenting on what they are under the original problem is more appropriate.

Cluttering MP with fluff (albeit hard fluff) is detrimental to the value of the resource because it makes navigation very confusing.

And what does "This is Wisconsin" mean? If you are referring to contrived routes at the lake, then yes some of these routes exist but I can't think of a one or two move variant and these routes all eliminate holds to make it harder, not add them on!

We shall take this to the forums! mountainproject.com/v/posti… Jun 20, 2011
Ian CB
Ian CB  
I could have called it Alpine Club Right, but that sounded boring. As for new variants, etc... We need more hard boulder problems in Wisconsin. Now the Beautiful Soup Area is stacked with a bunch of them.... That's pretty cool in my opinion. Jun 20, 2011
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
After thinking a bit about what Ian said "We need more hard boulder problems in Wisconsin." I can understand now.

It's not that "we" need more hard problems in WI. I think it's that Ian has done all the hard problems in WI and might get bored, if not for all of the sits and variations he has been adding. I suppose if I had climbed all the boulder problems at my limit and there wasn't anything left to work on, I would be doing exactly what Ian is doing. Jun 20, 2011
You pussy John. C'mon! Solidarity dude! You're not gonna let these pad pushers WIN are you?!!?!?!!?

No real trad climber would do that, now would they? You're out of the club! Jun 21, 2011
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
lol Rhoads! Ur right, I gave up. Oh wells. I'm a pad pusher too sometimes. Most of this year anyways. I clip bolts too!

"It's the bigger man that can admit when he is wrong" - Some Asian guy probably Jun 21, 2011
I'm a bit late to this but after seeing this problem in the video it's hard not to agree with most of what people have posted. The fact is that this problem is a pretty minor variation to AC that starts part way through AC and uses 1 additional hold to basically climb the same problem with a different sequence.

Sure, there's nothing wrong with arbitrarily making the existing problems harder if you're looking for something to do, but I agree that they really only serve to confuse and dilute the mountainproject resource. Using completely different names that have no relation to the original name only adds to that in my opinion. Aug 2, 2011
We should call it "Alpine Pub"! Aug 2, 2011
Ian CB
Ian CB  
Maybe it should be changed to alpine pub.. that's kinda catchy! Aug 2, 2011