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Routes in Hot Tamale Wall

Big Jake Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Whiskey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caballero Del Norte S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Stimulation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Distant Early Warning S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hey Mr. Vacquero S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hot Tamale Baby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In God's Country S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jake and the Neverland Cowboys S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Rodeo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Osita S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Popo Agie Pocket Pool S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ruby Shooter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shootist, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind River Rose S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windy City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,530 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Next route to the right of Hot Tamale and just right of a dihedral that splits the wall. HMV starts on an undercut belly of good stone. The opening is a pretty stout boulder problem. Start with the first stick clipped. Go from a right hand undercling to an inobvious left hand mono. Next up to a right hand 2 finger, then to a pretty good hold left and below the second draw. Clip here, then go right to a crappy hold right of the draw, then right again to a great hold. Get high feet and reach to good but far away pockets, passing the 3rd bolt on the way.

You get to a no hands rest at a ledge here and then launch into the second crux after clipping the next bolt. A good right hand and a questionable left foot on a detached flake get you to a dynamic move to a large finger bucket. You have to get your feet into this hold to clip the next bolt, so it feels a bit run out. The end is a delicate vertical dance past the last bolt. Super good route.

Location

Middle of the Tamale Wall

Protection

bolts

Photos

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Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
"b/c" You gotta be kidding me, right Tom? Is it getting to crowded up there or something (gotta keep those Greenies away). If this is b/c now, it's time to call Bobcat 12a...you know it's just a matter of time anyway.

Time to go train some more so I'll be able to RP the warmups....See you next week, hopefully! Jun 29, 2011
Tom Rangitsch
  5.12b/c
Tom Rangitsch  
  5.12b/c
Just trying to do my part in battling grade creep. Don't want the Iris to become another Tensleep. Jul 5, 2011

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