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Routes in Hot Tamale Wall

Big Jake Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Whiskey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caballero Del Norte S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Stimulation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hey Mr. Vacquero S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hot Tamale Baby S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In God's Country S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jake and the Neverland Cowboys S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Rodeo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Osita S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Popo Agie Pocket Pool S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ruby Shooter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shootist, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind River Rose S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windy City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,286 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Next route to the right of Hot Tamale and just right of a dihedral that splits the wall. HMV starts on an undercut belly of good stone. The opening is a pretty stout boulder problem. Start with the first stick clipped. Go from a right hand undercling to an inobvious left hand mono. Next up to a right hand 2 finger, then to a pretty good hold left and below the second draw. Clip here, then go right to a crappy hold right of the draw, then right again to a great hold. Get high feet and reach to good but far away pockets, passing the 3rd bolt on the way.

You get to a no hands rest at a ledge here and then launch into the second crux after clipping the next bolt. A good right hand and a questionable left foot on a detached flake get you to a dynamic move to a large finger bucket. You have to get your feet into this hold to clip the next bolt, so it feels a bit run out. The end is a delicate vertical dance past the last bolt. Super good route.

Location

Middle of the Tamale Wall

Protection

bolts

Photos

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Tom Rangitsch
Lander, WY
 
Tom Rangitsch   Lander, WY
 
Just trying to do my part in battling grade creep. Don't want the Iris to become another Tensleep. Jul 5, 2011
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
"b/c" You gotta be kidding me, right Tom? Is it getting to crowded up there or something (gotta keep those Greenies away). If this is b/c now, it's time to call Bobcat 12a...you know it's just a matter of time anyway.

Time to go train some more so I'll be able to RP the warmups....See you next week, hopefully! Jun 29, 2011