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Routes in Rising From the Plains
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Adi-Goddang-Yos S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Chaps S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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County Ten Purring Champ S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cowboy Killer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crazy Horst S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Horsewhipped and Hogtied S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Last Man Standing S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Lord Loves a Hangin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pocket Derringer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rising from the Plains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Rustler's Cache, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tres Hombres S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Western Side Step S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft |
| FA: | Paul Piana, then BJ Tilden |
| Page Views: | 535 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Rangitsch on Jun 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg |
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Description
Originally done by Paul Piana in the early 90s. A key undercling broke, making the crux significantly harder. BJ Tilden re-FA'd this a couple of years ago. There is a very small crimp that is mandatory now, so if you don't like the sounds of that, stay away from this one.
Goes up the middle of the steep wall of Rising from the Plains. Start on a vertical pillar, clip a first bolt and get to a large horn. Clip number two here then make two undercling moves with a left heel to get to a good 2 finger with the left hand. A long draw on number 3 helps to clip from here. Next go to a right mono, straight up to a left 3 finger, then a big move to a great finger bucket. Clip number four, breathe, then comes the crux. Your left hand grabs the crappiest crimp you can imagine actually holding onto, then undercling with the right hand just beneath (used to be a jug and it was 13a/b before it broke). Get your right foot up in the clipping jug, then surf out to a left hand side pull. Set your left foot and then move dynamically to a good jug to the left of the last bolt. Easy moves from here lead to a one bolt anchor with a leave it biner.
If you are as perplexed by the name as I first was, it is adios (good bye in Spanish) interrupted by some swearing.
Goes up the middle of the steep wall of Rising from the Plains. Start on a vertical pillar, clip a first bolt and get to a large horn. Clip number two here then make two undercling moves with a left heel to get to a good 2 finger with the left hand. A long draw on number 3 helps to clip from here. Next go to a right mono, straight up to a left 3 finger, then a big move to a great finger bucket. Clip number four, breathe, then comes the crux. Your left hand grabs the crappiest crimp you can imagine actually holding onto, then undercling with the right hand just beneath (used to be a jug and it was 13a/b before it broke). Get your right foot up in the clipping jug, then surf out to a left hand side pull. Set your left foot and then move dynamically to a good jug to the left of the last bolt. Easy moves from here lead to a one bolt anchor with a leave it biner.
If you are as perplexed by the name as I first was, it is adios (good bye in Spanish) interrupted by some swearing.
Photos
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Colorado Springs, CO