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The Fugitive

5.12b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 4 from 44 votes
FA: Bill Dockins, Kristen Drumheller, Tom Kalakay, May 1986
Montana > Southwest Region > Gallatin Canyon > E Side > Tango Tower

Description

The best line in the Canyon . . . Climb discontinuous finger cracks on a beautiful piece of stone. Grip it and rip it!

Location

Located on the lowest tier of Tango Tower, directly off the main trail with a ballin' belay seat.

Protection

Gear to 2". Heavy on nuts and fingers. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

who got strong?
[Hide Photo] who got strong?
Brad B. on the Fugitive
[Hide Photo] Brad B. on the Fugitive
"Grippin' it and rippin' it" on Fuigitive just below the crux
[Hide Photo] "Grippin' it and rippin' it" on Fuigitive just below the crux
Justin B, rippin it
[Hide Photo] Justin B, rippin it
The route is definitely 5.12 now. Jug after crux no longer exists.
[Hide Photo] The route is definitely 5.12 now. Jug after crux no longer exists.
Shaking out before it gets real
[Hide Photo] Shaking out before it gets real

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Bugh
Bozeman, MT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] 12a if you escape right to a rest on the arete after the first crux or 12b if you continue through the face and straight through the second crux, according to the Bill Dockins & Tom Kalakay guide book. May 8, 2013
Matt Z
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] One of the crimps pulling through the crux seems to have broken at some point in the past year, leaving a single pointy crystal in its wake. Gotta grip a bit harder now, but can still rip it. Sep 2, 2019
Phillip Cheesesteak
Bozeman
  5.12
[Hide Comment] haha oops, my fat ass kicked off that crimp last april Mar 27, 2020
Brad Burns
Story, WY
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route. Perhaps the best in the canyon. Great gear and fantastic movement. Feels on par for the grade! Grip it n rip it! I wonder how the crux felt before that crimp broke?! Aug 21, 2020
[Hide Comment] I concur with the "Best line in the canyon..." synopsis. The character of the climb is quite different if you skip the second crux by moving out to the arete. It's much easier but not recommended... Jul 27, 2021