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Routes in R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)

A Touch of Sushi . T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After The Fall T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Afternoon Tea. 5.7-R T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anglo/Japanese Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bon Voyage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Color of Spring T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daffodil Dihedral T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Day of the Litheon., The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eccentric Spiderman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Escape, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fell on Deaf Ear T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Firth of Forth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Visit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focus Pocus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gang of Four T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Fright. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great White Ridge, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonbeam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG Tips. . T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peenut Gallery. T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Sport . 5.8+R S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scorpion Face. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Solstice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spidermans Day Off .5.5R T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Team Ross. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zig Zag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 620 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross 27th May 2011
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Starts about about 40' left of the scramble up to the Great White Ridge. Look for a brown slab a few feet above the floor of the canyon. A fine expedition style climb with over all quite good rock. Four of the belays are with cams and stoppers. The descent is made from the traverse at the end of the sixth pitch that enables an escape down the raps of the Great White Ridge.

P1) Climb rounded slab ridge passed two bolts then easier rock to a right facing corner and double anchors.200' 5.7+.
P2) Climb up past two bolts and good pocket cams to a big ledge, belay in back of groove with cams and stoppers. 60' 5.9
P3)Face climb past two bolts,cams and nuts. At about 80' a 4" cam protects a 20' down climb into the big chimney on the left. Cam belays in back of chimney.100' 5.7.
P4)Stem up and clip bolt and face climb up crack to the ridge to cam and stopper belay. 40'5.8.
P5) Carry on up the ridge past tricky buldge (cam pro) . Then straight up open groove to step right to a big ledge on the right. Small cam Belay. 120'5.7. This belay is at the start of the traverse right to the Great White Ridge.
P6) From the ledge traverse right past a bolt to a notch in the ridge. Rap anchors a few feet down the groove. 70' 5.6.

Descent one singe rope rap then two double rope raps to the ground.

Location

Two Fingers Canyon . South end of the Great White Wall.

Protection

Cams 1/4" to 4" ,slings ,stoppers , two 60m ropes.

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