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Priapos

5.12d, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 33 votes
FA: Yan Ghesquiers, Philippe Pellet
International > Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Grande Grotta

Description

The best way to describe this climb is that it is overhanging 3D syfi climbing with hard moves in between good no hands rests. You feel like you are in some alternative universe. When you look up the route you see endless stalactites and blobs. Also if you want a better idea what the features are like, google the ancient Greek good Priapos. Enjoy

Protection

19 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

WAGbag Methodically Battles through the tufa forest for the OS
[Hide Photo] WAGbag Methodically Battles through the tufa forest for the OS
Getting that no hands rest.
[Hide Photo] Getting that no hands rest.
Sending in the sunshine on Priapos.
[Hide Photo] Sending in the sunshine on Priapos.
Only a few more moves before getting to Priapos's signature seat :-)
[Hide Photo] Only a few more moves before getting to Priapos's signature seat :-)
Project complete and Route cleaned! Well done Ryan
[Hide Photo] Project complete and Route cleaned! Well done Ryan
Where's Waldo Priapos addition.
[Hide Photo] Where's Waldo Priapos addition.
Crazy rest is the name of the game on this monster of a climb.
[Hide Photo] Crazy rest is the name of the game on this monster of a climb.
Ryan, going for the send on Priapos.
[Hide Photo] Ryan, going for the send on Priapos.
A climber searching their Way through the never ending stalactite forest of Priapos.
[Hide Photo] A climber searching their Way through the never ending stalactite forest of Priapos.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Lawyer

  5.12d
[Hide Comment] There is nothing I would consider “hard” (or bouldery) on this route. You can knee-bar everywhere, and there are several sit-down rests where you can shake out forever. The difficulty come in stringing it all together, and choosing the easiest line through an overwhelming and confusing forest of tufa. Often the easiest line is *not* the bolt line, and there is chalk everywhere. The route overhangs more than 100’.

I believe this route—and those like it on the island—are truly special and define Kalymnos climbing, and why people should come here to climb. Mar 18, 2018
[Hide Comment] This pitch is super out there...Super 3D hold ballooning with obvious or creative rests everywhere. The only technical crux to me was around the midway point where the 3D holds get a bit sparse but it's over quickly and there are very positive holds. Other than that, it's kind of a shift into 4WD low and crawl in 3rd gear rest to rest..It's like a cross fit tabata routine. I would recommend this pitch to anyone climbing the grade or even if you think your limit is a letter or two under (so long as you think head to toe physical climbing demand is a strength). Knee pads, sticky rubber cape and being hydrated before you go but not so hydrated that you would need to pee on route are highly recommended. Jul 29, 2020
[Hide Comment] It's like climbing DNA, doing a 2 bolt v2ish crux, then climbing DNA again with a little rope drag. Lots of knee bars and sit down rests. Long draws and being hydrated was helpful. Epic. May 14, 2022
D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] Feels like you're climbing forever! Probably 40m of continuous climbing with a distinct v2? crux. Too many kneebars to count and at least 3 sit down perches on stalactites. A 70m just BARELY gets you down from the anchor. Nov 18, 2022