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Routes in 0. Henderson's Buttress

Achille's Heel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bull Dog T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Henderson T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Muir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No Guts, No Glory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C0
Noonie Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Our Mine's I T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stoned T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 530 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White and Ryan Barber, June, August, 2011
Page Views: 1,650 total · 20/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 17, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Above 'Bulldog' ascend the break up face to a long block and on top of block two bolt belay.

This pitch was bolted. Up the Short wall by crimp holds (5-7) to the ceiling to the the diving board block mantled. Up the fractured left facing corner and climb grass clumped wall (5-9) and traverse right (5.8+) a little run out to the mantle onto the platform belay ledge.

Ryan did the nice crack and moved left and up with 2 pitons for protection. Lots of (5.7) and some (5.8) moves were made until the corner ramp to head is reached to a stunning inclined dihedral (5.9/A1) was climbed over onto slab to the belay ledge. Its way better to belay before doing the dihedral.

I went up the finger crack through ceiling (5.8) to enter and traverse to the right wall of a narrow ridge's edge with chock filled cracks. Move left pass pin and friction (5.8 crux) up to mantle onto ledges. Ledges end at belay (fixed stopper and pin) Rappel is doable.

Ryan From belay moved up right and back left to go directly up to crack corner below second diving board (5.8). After crack corner move pass the diving board on the inside of it. Move up to ceiling crack (5.8+ crux) and move left around ceiling and go up to ascend cracks in wall to the right at the top of the ridge.

Many rocks were removed on lead and seconding. There is much loose rock on the last pitch especially off route.
We had no trouble retrieving our rappel ropes from 4th pitch belay bolts.

For 6 years I've wanted to climb the diving board. It used to be called 'My Mine's I'. I got toasted from drilling on the lead and it took four trips to do it all.
The ceiling is very fractured and cams great weight. I opted for bolt protection below ceiling throughout this pitch.


Directly above Bulldog on the north side or right of 'Odessa Steps' second pitch.


17 bolts and several fixed pins. On 'Bulldog' I doubled up the bolts because there will be needed a belay station to the direct start that hasn't been done and rope soloing higher I wanted two before I went on. Now there are many options to belaying the first pitch. I nicknamed this climb my Cannon sport route. It is not like any Rumney sport route. It was a long project. I broke a drill bit on this very hard granite conglomerate. A light rack with cam gear including a couple of large ones and some long slings should do.
bradley white
bradley white   Bend
Apology for the criticism post. Its gone. I am not good at reading. I read into writing what is not written, often. We all have our flaws and one of mine is reading. This area of Cannon has many options for climbing. Exploration for variations and a couple of new routes are available. Area is short in length and altitude compared to north face Eiger. I think area is good practice for the longest routes on mountains like the Eiger north face. I don't know because have not been on the Eiger. I know only here have I trashed ropes like nowhere else from loose rock dropping on the rope. Most climbing is not technically difficult. The potential for difficulty exist and most starts about 200 feet up. It is an area hundreds of feet wide like an apron of clean Rock from Muir Buttress to Our Mines I. It has little natural protection too nearly none. I'm at a really weak climbing ability again. I will only be doing exploration of this area until its been thoroughly explored. Probably after a few more years. Its fits into my mood since I am climbing poorly I am doing extreme route finding climbing. To make sense to my madness is I prefer to stop climbing working on something extreme. Ryan barber and I are ready to make the big push to get to the top of probably the longest length climb in this area. When I get done with our new route I'll post it. Jul 28, 2013
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.9 PG13
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.9 PG13
Traversed right to this after failing to find (or perhaps understand) the second pitch of Odessa Steps. Some bits of nice climbing, especially the sharp dihedral; also a lot of loose rock. Plenty of gear placements, but often only in fractured rock of uncertain stability. Jul 15, 2013
Pitches 3 and up have been climbed previously, free and clean. The lower diving board pitch can be avoided on the right via cracks in a left facing dihedral/flake followed by a flirt with the Muir before stepping left to a platform beside thin cracks in good rock. Up to good ledges, then diagonal left to the crack below the kinematic coupler pitch (V-groove). The left crack below the kinematic coupler is fun & similarly difficult to the right, though the left's cleaver flake is a little perplexing. Oct 1, 2011
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Pitch 1 (5.5 R): Start with the climb "Bull Dog" and climb up and right to a two bolt belay station just underneath roof with "diving board". Extend all slings. 6 bolts. (160 ft).

Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb up under roof. Traverse left around and on top of "diving board" and up to ledge. Continue up left facing crack corner, traverse left to grass ledge, and move up and right onto face. Climb to face and traverse right to anchor ledge. 8 bolts (50 ft).

Pitch 3 (5.7): Climb left up vertical crack for 30 feet. Traverse left past pin. Climb up another 40 feet past second pin to belay ledge under dihedral v-groove. (100 ft).

Pitch 4 (5.9+): Climb through dihedral v-groove and exit right onto face after fixed nut. Climb up to belay ledge (1 pin, 1 bolt). (30 ft).

Pitch 5 (5.8): Climb up finger crack through over ceiling, and follow the crack up and right to pin. Traverse right onto face, and up right side of face via crack to second pin. Move left up steep slab and back right to third pin before belay ledge (pin / fixed stopper). (80 ft).

Pitch 6 (5.8+): Careful climbing to stay on route (solid rock) up and around "Diving Board #2" (large). Climb up to ceiling, and exit left. Climb through left-facing wall. Summit onto moss, and exit right through trees and bushes into alcove. Belay off of solid pine inside alcove. (110 ft).

Finish: Make your way up and right through alcove to meet Whitney-Gilman decent trail. (30 ft). Aug 25, 2011

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