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Routes in East Wall Trail

Beautiful Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bin Leadin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blue Pill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Hazel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
First Degree , The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mechanical Advantage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dutch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pill T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skinny Fingers T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wildcat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: D Brayshaw S Neufeld June 16, 2011
Page Views: 859 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dru on Jun 16, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Layback the wide flake crack to a pinnacle. Move right past the first bolt (tricky boulder move, probably harder than 5.8 but right at the bolt) on pockets and edge to a right facing flake. Up this and the curving crack above to ledge. Pull flake through the overhang then climb featured slab past more bolts to the station, which is just above the belay tree for Wayback Layback, Crack of Dawn and Sliver and can be used to set a TR on these climbs.

Named after a bobcat that was prowling around the base.

From the bolted belay, a second pitch (30m, ~5.7) continues up the low angle stepped arete to the ledge below Bigfoot. Two bolts plus several pieces of finger sized gear.

Location

When walking the trail east to Sharktooth Flake etc. from the Sleeping Princess area this climb is obvious on the left. scramble up a short trail to the base.

From the belay atop the first pitch, rappel (don't lower, see note) or climb the second pitch and then walk off. Note you can rappel from the first station with a 60m rope but to lower you need a 70m. If lowering with a 60m you can only get to the pinnacle 5m off the ground and may have to downclimb from there. The second pitch anchor is bolts only, not a rappel chain. It is exactly 60m from the upper anchor to the base, but it's hard to climb the combined route in one linked pitch with a 60m rope because with all the pro placed the line of the climb angled and so more like 70m than 60m.

  • *Don't let your belayer drop you by running the end of the rope through their device while lowering with a 60m.***

Protection

First pitch: Four bolts and three or four cams 1/2" to 2". Rappel anchors on top (rap rings).
Second pitch: two bolts and several finger-sized nuts or cams. Bolted anchor on top.

Photos

Andy Jackson
  5.8
Andy Jackson  
  5.8
First pitch has been rescrubbed. The bushwhack to the base of the climb has also been cleaned up. My 70m rope just makes it when getting lowered, be sure to tie knots! An alternative start is to climb the corner to the right then step left to the flake. The corner would take a #3 or #4 c4.

This route is a lot of fun! Highly recommend! Jun 23, 2017
Dave Ellison
Abbotsford, British Columbia
  5.8+ PG13
Dave Ellison   Abbotsford, British Columbia
  5.8+ PG13
It's a bit of a bushwhack to find the start of this climb right now but don't be discouraged its not too bad once on route.

Starting with Wildcat and then continuing onto Bigfoot is a great linkup worth doing with a lot of different styles of climbing. Makes a great 5.10 multi pitch. Jul 13, 2015
Dru
 
Dru  
 
Second pitch is now fully cleaned. Follow the arete throughout, 30m, 5.7-ish. Needs a good rainfall to wash the dust away, though. Two 1990s era bolts (still in good shape), finger sized gear, may need one more bolt at the second step. Ends on the ledge right below Bigfoot and about 10m right of the top anchor for Tree Frog. Sep 6, 2011