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Routes in Left of main southeast face

Crimpers delight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky 13th (CRS) pitch 1 - 5.10c, pitch 2 5.11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
On second thought T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
One Pitch Wonder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sailor Moon T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Save the Shrimp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scarecrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seam of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spooktacular T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Treat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Zombie Spoof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1980 JD & SF
Page Views: 3,443 total, 44/month
Shared By: Fussman on Jun 15, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

This route has friction, cracks, traverses, overhangs, water grooves and more and is an absolute blast. There are some areas where the route is run out, but at most of the critical areas there is sufficient pro. You can easily exit the route at pitch 2.

Pitch 1 is primarily friction - 5.7Crux
Pitch 2 is friction, a dihedral crack, face climbing and overhang finish into a cave-You can walk off the route from here if desired. Crux5.7-5.8
Pitch 3 is 3 progressive overhangs with great rest points - Crux5.8
Pitch 4 is friction - Crux5.8
Pitch 5 starts with a 15ft crack to a water groove and then huge ledge - Crux5.8
Pitch 6 starts with a overhang off the ledge and then follows a water groove with face climbing, ending with another overhang and face climbing. - Crux5.8

The crux of the route is about halfway into the route transitioning from the lower face to the upper face. The 4th pitch has a traverse with little pro (at least back in the 80's). I would assume by now that some bolts have been added to key areas of the route. The entire route was originally done with sparse pro, sparse bolts, tricams and stoppers. Modern gear makes it much more enjoyable and protected.

Location

Approx 150 feet along the first remants of cliff on the trail that goes to the main face. You will go past a gulley that goes up the left side of the face. The exit is approx 150 feet below the trail that is on the top of the mountain. There is the remnants of a trail through the trees at the top. Take the main trail down to the parking lot.

Protection

-Full rack of cams
-Plenty of small tricams
-Full rack of stoppers
-Long slings
-Cliff hanger with a water bottle to protect part of the pitch 4 traverse
-Do not know the statis of the bolts currently on the route.
-Full length rope and second rope if you have to rap off.
A couple of notes on S t S : it is run out, the exposure is fantastic and hanging out on spacious mossy ledges is enough to give rock climbing a good name. It does have some organizational problem however. After leaving the corner on pitch 2 and climbing the wonderfully exposed face above (there is gear here) continue through the black jugs to a grassy ledge that connects to Indian Ledge on the right. You will find a bolt and a gear pocket belay. Pitch 3 then goes back to the left, behind the tree and opens up as you traverse the lip of on overhang. Step up over a bulge just after the #2 cam placement, move left 6 feet and belay in an excellent seam with nuts and cams. Whitesides Cove is hanging out beneath your ass. The old belay, which is further left, offers 3 bad bolts, less room and no where near the same drama. Skip it. The next pitch is the head point crux with a simple but committing move on broken crystals. As distasteful as a retro bolt is, it might be justified in this case. Above the flake pitch, #5, and on the ledge below the second crux, there is a large cam pocket to the right and a great place to hang out. The down side is it means you will need 2 #2 and 2 #3 camalots since the best and driest way to finish is through the left hand overhang at the top of the route, and a #2 and a # 3 are needed there. Without the extra cams you can still get off to the right but it isn't as much fun. Oct 23, 2017
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.9- PG13
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.9- PG13
Just a couple of notes...

Got a old topo of this route that was first done in 1980. The start might be a bit hard to find but you wanna be below and slighly right of the big overhanging SW arete feature (Gorilla's Face). Pitch 1 Slab and face climb up and left passing one bolt gear to 2 bolt belay (if you see a right facing dihedral with a right arching roof you are on route). Pitch 2 Climb mentioned dihedral then step left out roof to face climb to a ledge. Pitch 3 Short climbing up steep face past big holds to ledge. Belay at fixed rope and trees (we combined these two pitches). Pitch 4 Traverse left on "Indian Ledges" until able to pull roof to face and 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 5 Traverse right to grassy ramp angling slightly upward to 2 bolt belay. Pitch 6 Continue right to flake pasted on wall continue to ledge and gear belay. Pitch 7 Up a water groove past 1 bolt gear to single bolt below the treeline.

Bolts are one "newer" one and one ancient one at most belays.

While not as long, committing and hard as other Whiteside routes Save the Shrimp offers a good mix of exciting Whiteside style climbing. Nov 11, 2013