All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Bulletheads > Bulletheads North
Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Greg Cameron, George Manson, 1979.|
|Page Views:||1,271 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Scott W on Jun 15, 2011|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionThis is slightly left leaning shallow offwidth/flare. You end up getting good hand jams and finger locks galore all through it, which makes resting very possible anywhere, however, as there are no feet, it's a shallow, flaring and steep corner is it ends up being a total grovel fest of full body scumming, palming nothing and thrashing...pretty solid 35 meters of very sustained climbing, crux in the last 10 feet=) Once out of the flare you can head straight left on good ledge to dicey slab finish(10a/b-R I'd guess, I was puckered, could be 5.7) or straight up out of the flare(I haven't done this, heard it was 11c or so). This pitch reminds me a lot of the crux pitch of Alaskan Highway...prepare for battle.
I've heard this route called 5.11+/5.12- from several solid 5.12 trad climbers...I'm not that good but do enjoy groveling, so the 5.11a grade felt accurate to me. Very skills dependent I suspect. Absolute must do...kind of a day ender though.