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Routes in Bulletheads North

Caucasian Eyes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ren T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Greg Cameron, George Manson, 1979.
Page Views: 1,271 total, 16/month
Shared By: Scott W on Jun 15, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This is slightly left leaning shallow offwidth/flare. You end up getting good hand jams and finger locks galore all through it, which makes resting very possible anywhere, however, as there are no feet, it's a shallow, flaring and steep corner is it ends up being a total grovel fest of full body scumming, palming nothing and thrashing...pretty solid 35 meters of very sustained climbing, crux in the last 10 feet=) Once out of the flare you can head straight left on good ledge to dicey slab finish(10a/b-R I'd guess, I was puckered, could be 5.7) or straight up out of the flare(I haven't done this, heard it was 11c or so). This pitch reminds me a lot of the crux pitch of Alaskan Highway...prepare for battle.

I've heard this route called 5.11+/5.12- from several solid 5.12 trad climbers...I'm not that good but do enjoy groveling, so the 5.11a grade felt accurate to me. Very skills dependent I suspect. Absolute must do...kind of a day ender though.

Location

From the start of the Tantalus Wall keep heading up the trail, up a gulley with some fixed lines. You'll hit the belay ledge that also has other lines on it. Most notably a 13a/b sport route on an arete, can't recall the name, but it's classic. Keep on past this on the ledge system, when you hit a nice platform and an intimidating looking slightly overhanging flare, you've arrived.

Protection

Awesome gear everywhere. I took mostly small stuff, doubles purple metolius up to #3 camalots and one #4 that I place at first chance I got, 15 feet off the ground, never needed it higher up(all new style camalots), and triples from blue metolius to .75 camalots...placed everything I had. If you are decent with stoppers, I suspect you could sew this thing up real real good, I think I placed a few just to save cams for battle up higher.

Photos

Tim Bonnell
  5.11c
Tim Bonnell  
  5.11c
Not sure how this can be called 10b (Raddam6)?! I found the 3rd pitch to be the most sand-bagged 11a at Squamish...definitely harder than Hypertension and the Hirvonen Slot. My partner figured it was tougher the p2 of Alaska Highway.

The direct finish isn't currently feasible and it would need a good scrub to be protectable/climbable.

Nice feature though.... Jul 11, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
Greg, yeah it just makes sense to me that you would have continued up the same crack, it is good and protects well, actually the easiest part of the climb- don't know why McClain gives it a 11b. For me the climb is at least 11a overall. Aug 24, 2016
I believe that I did the center crack at the top, but I'm actually not sure. Perry Beckham belayed me. I bet he remembers.

By the way, apparently (according to Perry) George was not with me on the first ascent. I guess it was just Perry belaying me. Jul 28, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
Greg, how did you guys do the top bit after the sloping ledge with the only jug on the whole route? Was it the left slanting dyke,that the books call R- for the slab top, the central crack- they call 11b, maybe more like 11a? Seems unlikely you would have gone further right to next crack. Jul 10, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11-
Description
Pitch 1) 5.9 traverse from Turkey ledge at north end of the Bullet, step down to bolted anchor right of Eurasian Eyes. Small trees, hand traverse sloping holds, placing pro for your follower. It is tempting to clip the bolts that start climbs along this traverse, but it is hard and scary for the follower to unclip them.
Pass bolted anchor at base of Fight Club and head up onto ledges to pedestal behind cedar tree.This is really hard for 5.9.

Pitch 2 ) first ascent calls this 10b, we thought it was more like 10a. VERY DIRTY. A off width slot leads into good fist to hands to fingers, ramps up right to base of the obvious arching final pitch with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3 ) fingers layback leads to hand crack with a rotten stump guarding the long groove arching left ward above. Very dirty, I tried to scrape out some dirt at the start, it cleans up as you go.There are many smaller cam options where it gets big, but larger cams are optional- like a 2 each #2 and #3 Camalot.
There are 3 finish options, left out onto face is R rated, Center is 11b, Right is top out of Turkey Shoot about 11a.
The first ascent team graded this 10d ( at least that is what it is in the Campbell 1985 book), McLane and Bourdon grade it 11a, It is super sustained with few rests.

Location
start near Eurasian Eyes. Either rap route with double rope, hike off south to MaƱana wall descent, or rap back into South/south gully (2-3 single rope raps back to Turkey ledge, or rap down north end of the Bullet above Eurasian Eyes to anchor of Ren with single rope.

Protection
Double rack to #3 Camalot. bolted anchor up top with no chain.But if you are thinking of rapping I think it is better to rap off the top of the Bullet, 2 single rope raps back to ledge where Eurasian Eyes starts, then 2) double rope raps back to ground ( single rope raps ok, plan to have slings) or rap into SS Guly. May 17, 2016
So, I did the first ascent of this in 1979. I thought I had rated it 5.10c but I could be wrong. Apr 26, 2016
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.10b
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.10b
It was a good pitch. Use a variety of techniques to nke your way up, tons of good gear as has been said. I would not want to do it with a single rack though, unless you are really, really good with nuts. For sure not 5.12. The first 2 pitches suck. Jul 18, 2015