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North Couloir
4th,
Trad, Alpine,
Avg: 2.4 from 32
votes
FA: Walter Starr Jr. September 25th 1931
California
> High Sierra
> 09 - Palisades…
> Mt Sill
Description
The North Couloir of Mt Sill can be reached via Glacier Notch, which is the notch between Mt. Sill and Mt. Gayley. Glacier Notch is reached by crossing the burgschrund of the Palisade Glacier and climbing the steep gully between Sill and Gayley. Once the notch is gained, head southwest and climb the large, snow filled gully(North Couloir) to the gap between Sill and Apex Peak. From this gap, traverse across the north face about 100 feet to a steep chute. Climb straight up this chute to the northwest ridge. From the ridge, climb the large blocks on the northwest face to the summit.
Location
Palisades
Protection
Ice axe, crampons, helmet.
North Couloir (aka L-Shaped Couloir) Descent Beta Head down the ridge towards North Pal, then descend from the ridge before it levels off (just before a split pinnacle), usually in a series of rappels to an exposed traverse across to the notch at the top of the L-Shaped Couloir. This is all very exposed and an unprotected slip would be fatal. One can breathe a little more easily once down the couloir. The last real iffy bit is descending back down the Glacier Notch couloir. From here enjoy the hike back down to the comfort and greenery of Sam Mack Meadow (early season glissades back to the meadow are ideal for the weary Alpinist).
[Hide Photo] Davi Rivas on North Couloir, Mt Sill, 2011.
[Hide Photo] A fun variation of the North Couloir. Photo from 15 June 2019. Secor says its five short pitches, we did it in three. Mix of fun climbing: easy corners, half pitch of chimney, slab & step around…
[Hide Photo] Ascending the L shaped couloir in primo conditions!
[Hide Photo] Approaching the notch between Sill and Apex!
[Hide Photo] Shane McNickle contemplating the crux of the day. Photo by Ryan Hartegan.
[Hide Photo] Looking across the 3rd class catwalk leading to the crux!
[Hide Photo] The crux of the L shaped couliar in early July.
[Hide Photo] Skiing the NE (L shaped) Couloir on Mt.Sill
This is the standard descent route from the summit - and can be problematic during a descent, finding where to get off the ridge and using the rappels (take note on the way up). There has been at least one fatality on this route during a descent; check the rappel slings. The crossing from the top of the couloir to the start of the upper section is extremely exposed, needless to say in both directions - don't underestimate the route.
Jul 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] L Shaped Snow Couloir is completely gone now but when we did this a few months ago we used crampons for about 200ft on the ascent and about 40 for on the descent but all could be avoided. Climbed optional solid 4th class rock directly up to Alex Peak and then what felt like all 3rd class rock up to Mt Sill.
Sep 15, 2021
Avg: 2.4 from 32
votes
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Big Bear Lake
This is the standard descent route from the summit - and can be problematic during a descent, finding where to get off the ridge and using the rappels (take note on the way up). There has been at least one fatality on this route during a descent; check the rappel slings. The crossing from the top of the couloir to the start of the upper section is extremely exposed, needless to say in both directions - don't underestimate the route. Jul 15, 2015
Yosemite/Lone Pine, CA