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Routes in Graischer Bleisteinwände

Broken Heart S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eibenweg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex und Hopp S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flasche Leer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hasardeur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hauruck S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Höhlenweg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Koung S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pappnase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scharfe Braut S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schwarte S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Boehm/Hessing 2001
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 13, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Balance up to the second bolt. Make tricky moves to the third bolt (crux). Climb the crack and some face holds to the fourth bolt and take a rest (if you didn't already at the third bolt) and fire through the roof. Good holds are off to the left and a heel hook and mantel were my tactics for negotiating this roof. Easy climbing leads to the anchor.

Location

In the Bleiwand Sector (see Broken Heart), climb the left of the two routes which tackle the slabby and slightly blank looking wall to the right of the little tower that Broken Heart and Pappnase are on. (If you bought the guidebook and are looking at doing the 7 (Bunte Kuh) as a warm-up, this is what the book describes it as: "More of a toilet for a dormouse than a worthwhile route." That's what all that green stuff is.)

Protection

6 bolts + anchor

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