Type: Sport
FA: Muriel P./Michel P. 06
Page Views: 446 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ken H on Jun 13, 2011
Admins: Jake Dickerson

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2 Opinions

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The guidebook says 7a (5.11d according to the guide conversion chart) and seemed soft to me. The route is great whatever the grade very sustained and steep on mostly good holds and well protected except for the topout which feel just bold and desperate after all the steep climbing. You can bailout on the anchors of Chili con Pillar if you are not up to the slappy slopey move at the top.


3rd route left of the large chimney/dihedral feature. Left route out the little overhang.


15 bolts


Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
Well ken I'm a bit surprised to see this at 11.-. If you think there is no move harder than 10 d. I'll respectfully disagree and say compared to routes in the red river gorge or many areas in co or any sport climbing destination I've been to the grade feels on point. Perhaps you climb in the gunks or eldo or maybe Yosemite in which case this climb may very well seem 11a/b. but this is a sport climbing destination and like or not but shit is graded a little differently in sport areas. Cheers Feb 10, 2016
Ken H
Granite, UT
Ken H   Granite, UT
I was comparing it with the 3 months I'd just spent at Tonsai, Yangshuo, and Ho Long Bay which we'd just visited. So I was rating it inline with those places. We moved onto Kalymnos after Geyikbayiri. None of those places are regarded as being stiffly rated and are on the French system. Who knows maybe it played to my strength at the time or maybe holds have broken or polished up. We visited 5 years ago now and I imagine this route has seen a lot of traffic.

One great thing with MP.com is you can add your own rating and the consensus rating will change. Currently, it will change a lot since I'm the only one rater. If others agree too, I'll drop my calling it out as a sugarbag. And just call it a great steep climb on mostly good holds. Feb 10, 2016