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Routes in Breakfast Cliff

Diner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Poos, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morning Schist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Wood S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pete's Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waffle House S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 1,807 total, 23/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Jun 10, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The morning poos! This route is a lot of fun whether you're looking to get your first lead, warm up, or doing some climbing to get the morning started. Tricky movements lead to good stances where you can plan out your next move.

Location

This is currently the leftmost route on the wall.

Protection

8 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
I agree that this route has excellent stances between difficult moves. I did a lead rope solo of this, and it was nice that these stances existed and the route was not completely sustained. Nov 30, 2013
I think the links I had are plated steel & I wrenched them down as tight as I could. I don't think that there would be any mixed metal stress corrosion issues for the links as nothing is under stress like a bolt and hanger are. I would think that even rapping thru single link would foul your rope when you pulled it though. Even the Fixe' single rings suck despite their attempt to change the angle of the hanger. Also, a place called Pambina has very good prices on quick links & let me know if you need help locating them. I hope to be able to enjoy the other routes someday soon when it finally quits raining. Jul 29, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
That's great! Thanks for adding those, it's good to have some help on that wall :). I usually rappel when I lower that. Are the links you added stainless steel? Anyway, thanks for your help and I am glad you liked the route! Jul 29, 2011
Nice route, but the top anchor was not in the greatest condition yesterday. Both anchor bolts only had one quick link each, a situation that will totally ruin a rope if used for lowering. There may have been carabiners originally that some moron snatched. I added quicklinks to both anchors, so things should be better now, and then it started to rain. The other routes looked nice too. Jul 29, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
On this route, there are a few places where you can step on a ledge or pull a strenuous move. The route is rated by using the ledges, but the beginning could be a lot harder if you want a little extra challenge. It's a lot of fun! Jun 10, 2011