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Routes in Hexenküche

Allgäuer Traum S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alter Hexentanz (Old Witch's Dance) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Athos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baba Jaga S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Belohnung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crash V5 6C
Devil Wall S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devils's Dance V6 7A
Diagonalweg S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Direkter Sanduhrweg (Direct Hour Glass Way) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exzess im Morgenrot (Excess at Sunrise) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feenwald S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gabriels großzügiges Geschenk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geölter Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hexensex S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hexentanz (Witch's Dance) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hiltpoltsteiner Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Klein und Gemein (Small and Mean) S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kleine Hexen müssen hexen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kurz und Schmerzlos (Short and Painless) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kurzer Zauber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (Liesel Maurer Commemoration Way) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master of Stone V6- 7A
Mauerblümchen (Wallflower) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nordkante (North Arete) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Nordschlucht (North Gully) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nordwestkante S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ostkamin (East Chimney) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ostschlucht S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ostverschneidung (East Dihedral) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ostwand (East wall) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phantom Lord V5 6C
Pipifax (Codswallop) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattenschwanz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Räuber Hotzenplotz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sad Lisa V2 5+
Scherzkeks (Joke Cookies?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solohex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teufelspakt V3- 6A
Turmwächter (Tower Guard) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ulrikenpfeiler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Völlig Schwerlos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waldenser V1 5
Wer hat Angst vor Anthony Braxton? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zittern verboten (shaking forbidden) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
mihi Malte S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: K. Oelze 1991
Page Views: 32 total · 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is a bitch. The first bolt, though really high, is easy to get to, even though it looks hard. The holds are all good and it tricks you into a sense of ease. The section between the first and second bolts makes you a little more aware that things aren't what they seemed when you started this. After you clip the second bolt, you have the option of climbing on itty bitty crimpy pockets and balancy footwork (left/direct to anchor), or a slopey diagonal crack (right and back left to anchor). Good luck.

Location

When coming into the area from the parking lot, head towards the east-facing wall where Ostwand and Ostverschneidung are located and head down the hill around to the slightly overhanging routes. The two routes in the middle of the wall in front of you are Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (left) and Hexentanz (right).

Protection

2 bolts + anchor

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