Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: T. Rothballer
Page Views: 420 total · 4/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

The bolts on this thing are pretty crazy. I would recommend top-roping it before attempting it if 5.11s are challenging for you. If you're tall, you can clip the first bolt without having to start climbing, or if you're small like me, climb up some good holds and don't fall before clipping the first bolt because the landing is a bit nasty. Boulder through the lower section, using the good though somewhat small pockets, then make a big and somewhat blind move to the hold right of and a little below the second bolt. Don't blow that section because again, the landing is crap and since the first bolt is a bit below you, the landing could be painful. Also, I read that the first bolt is in crumbly rock, but it didn't appear to be to me. In any case, use caution. After clipping the second bolt, either piece together the end sequence using small holds (if you're small), or make burly long moves using an undercling (if you're big). Once you stick the big pocket you're through the hard stuff.

This route is pretty consistenly difficult with no real definitive crux, so make sure you're comfortable at the grade before leading it because a fall before the second bolt could really hurt.

Location

When coming into the area from the parking lot, head towards the east-facing wall where Ostwand and Ostverschneidung are located and head down the hill around to the slightly overhanging routes. The two routes in the middle of the wall in front of you are Liesel Maurer Ged.-Weg (left) and Hexentanz (right).

Protection

2 bolts + anchor

Photos

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