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The Missing Link

5.10-, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 20 votes
FA: Ron Amick, Peter Campos
California > San Diego County > N San Diego County > Mt Woodson > Missing Link Area

Description

Smear and edge your way up the smooth west face of The Missing Link boulder past two bolts. Only two bolts on this climb that were most likely placed on lead. The moves getting to the bolts are easy with the cruxes coming just after clipping them.

Location

Walk past the Longs Cracks on the downhill side (east side). Follow a faint trail north across the slabs towards the huge boulder on the other side. The Missing Link is on the west face of the boulder.

Protection

Two lead bolts and a double bolt anchor with rap chains on top which were all recently replaced thanks to ASCA.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

nds leading missing link
[Hide Photo] nds leading missing link
ryan on missing link
[Hide Photo] ryan on missing link

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Amick
Poway, CA
 
[Hide Comment] FA was by me and Peter Campos, ground up Nov 5, 2011
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I thought it was easier than a 10b. Its a sport climb, not trad. Decking potential at the second bolt but I think the feet are good enough to keep this a G rated climb Oct 22, 2017
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Committing moves before the first bolt, a bit of a run to the 2nd, both bolts drilled on lead from stances... it has all of the hallmarks of a "Bolt-protected Trad Climb". Aug 6, 2018
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It's a trad climb, not sport.

Ground up baby !!!!

PS. This is a very proud boulder. Believe the first V21 highball might go free on the giant north face. Oct 28, 2020
Ron Amick
Poway, CA
 
[Hide Comment] yep placed the bolts on the lead, but it wasnt that hard, decent stances from which i hauled the drill up on a hand line Jun 2, 2023
M LP
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this one. Great little slab climb. Thanks Ron. Jun 2, 2023
Ron Amick
Poway, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Me and Peter campos did the FA and i placed the bolts on the lead. I placed two bomber 3/4" x 3" deep bolts on top so i dont think they needed replacing. I never chain my bolts as it is needless and only adds an etra point of potential failure. I think people can figure out how to use two bolts Mar 17, 2024